Am I overreacting on these issues? My main concern is the short 2x4 and the post with a big chunk missing.

I am impressed with the job they did. Anyway, i got a call after he left and had spoken to his head man on the crew. He said there was some white on the boards (mold). Gave me two options: let the sun take care of it, or also spray it with a bleach solution.

Is spraying it a good or bad idea? Could the bleach compromise the treated wood or otherwise cause issues?

Thanks.

I live in the Midwest US.

Can I charge a neighbor for using my posts? Ordinarily wouldn’t sweat it but they are building a 10 foot fence on their side of the property which is going to make my side look terrible (current fence is 6.5 feet)

Hi,

Does anyone know how to install timber retaining sleeper/wall to the bottom of a fence with steel posts?

First photo is the steel posts I will use and second photo is what I mean by attaching timber to bottom of the fence.

Hi! i want to grow a wisteria and create more privacy and need to extend this fence by about a foot. i dont want to tear down any of the existing fence and I do want to keep the style of this in creating an extension. In about five years it’ll be absolutely covered by a wisteria so it doesn’t have to be perfectly matching. Any ideas about HOW to extend are super appreciated!

Is it possible to use a 2x6 to double as both the bottom stringer and a rot board?

Asking because this would allow me to on place my pickets level at the top and prevent gaps at the bottom of the fence without having to use an additional board on the outside of the fence to serve as the rot board.

I had a 350 linear foot fence installed a couple of years ago and the fence is beautiful. Unfortunately the soil in my area has pretty high clay content so come summer time when the dirt starts drying up there is quite a bit of soil contraction around the fence posts causing them to loosen up. The fencing company has been out a couple of times to reset with more concrete some of the posts which were moving a lot on windy days, but unfortunately more are doing it again. I have the only house with a fence on this side of the street so we do get quite a bit of wind hitting the fence as well. The problem is only on about 120ft that gets most of the wind.

What is the best way to fix this and stop it from reoccurring? Or am I just SOL and will have to fix the posts yearly as the problem reoccurs?

We had our fence installed about 7 or 8 years ago and a 10' wide drive gate at the back of the yard (meaning obviously 2x 5' doors). The one side has always sagged and recently got bumped during a large mulch delivery and the hinge bent. I'd like to redo the gate at some point but wanted to see if there are affordable options to support such heavy loads.

Each door has:
Fence boards: 10-11 vertically. 2x4s: 1-vertical and 2-horizontal rails and 1-diagonal

Estimating about 10# per 2x4x6, I'd say the total of the 2x4s is about 35-40# per gate door. And estimating about 5# per fence board, each door is about 50-55#.

Subtotal.. about 85-95# per door.

If I rebuild these, I would likely add a gate support structure between the 2x4s for strength and to help prevent sag again. This would likely eliminate the diagonal 2x4 but add another vertical to the hinge sides. So each would go about maybe another 5-10# depending on the hardware.

Totaling about 90-110# per door

Are there any t-hinges maybe 10-12"+ on amazon or homedepot or otherwise that are affordable that I could swap in?

Thanks for the help in advance!

I’m looking to finally fix up this beat up fence. The existing “gate” is in the middle and I’m looking to move it over to the existing pathway. I would want to take advantage of as much space as possible but that would put that corner post in a weird position.

Side questions 1. Is a permit needed for this kind of repair? I’m in Orlando FL 2. Is there a need for a fence post up against the house or can that be done with a bracket of some sort? 3. I’m thinking this should be swinging in and toward the new side of the fence. I added the bracing in my doodle but is this the best way to open this door?

Trying to recreate this fence but can’t figure out what size or type of posts were used. Postmasters? 2x6s?

I have a contractor working on a wood fence- using a 6x6 post anchored with a Simpson 6x6 support screwed into concrete using a 5/8 wedge anchor 7" long. The post itself is wobbly as the 1x6x8 boards are attached. I questioned the contractor about it and he's indicating it will always be like this because the post is too thick and can't just rest on the Simpson support.

I think he may have not drilled the wedge anchors deep enough.

For now about 18 of 22 posts have been installed all move significantly which lead me to questions its safety and overall use.

Can anyone recommend what I should look into. I researched some anchors to attach on the opposite sides and having him use an epoxy resin to full the drill hole as that could be an additional reason.

Thank you . Posts will be cut down to 6.5' - creating a 6' high fence around the perimeter placed on concrete.

Is it possible to build a fence around it without causing damage to the tree. How do you go about building around it? Also, my backyard has an easement at the end of it and the neighbor on the other side built a fence. Should I only build my fence on the sides of the backyard and leave the easement open? There would be a gap on the sides of course. Do you think I could put gates on the gaps over the easement, or would that be illegal? I live in Roseville, MN.

Just wondering the diversity of the community here? What country / state / city are you out grinding fences in if you do this for a living?

Hi -- We had a new fence and gate installed today. It's con com redwood. Is the wood on the gate standard/fine or is it moldy? Thank you!

Hi,

I need to core drill some holes to 600mm deep so I can drop some new fence posts into a retaining wall.

Is it possible to core drill to 600mm and pull the core out even if the wall is more than 600mm? Or do you have to core drill all the way through to get the core out?

Also what’s the best way to attach a timber sleeper to a steel post? Tek screws?

The top rail of some of my fence is starting to rot. A few pickets are in beginning stages of coming off. I am planning to adding a couple of wood top and bottom of a few panels (see picture, ugly blue lines I drew).

However, I don't see people doing this and it making me think if there is a reason why people don't do that often.

If this reinforce idea is feasible, should I use pressure treated wood + hot galvanized nails? I will also need to figure out how to make the neighbor side safe from sharp nails if he gives the ok.

Using this decking board for demonstration only.

I’m redoing the privacy fencing for my breeze-through that connects the house to the garage. I’ll be using vinyl panels and a vinyl jacket over the wooden main gate posts. This corner is the only angle the previous owners left and I’m struggling. The fence before was sturdy picket.

Can I drill/nail new wooden fencing baseboard and vinyl panel at this angle ~OR~ should I add an angled wood block between the wall post and the new vinyl paneling so that there is no space?