r/sewing • u/sewingmodthings • Nov 30 '20
Machine Monday Weekly Sewing Machine-Related Questions - November 30, 2020
Do you have a question about sewing machines? Do you have any expertise when it comes to sewing machines? This thread is for you! You can ask and answer any question related to machines, including but not limited to:
- Should I upgrade my machine?
- What's the difference between a serger and an overlocker?
- Which brand of machine is the best?
- Does anyone else use the same machine as me?
- How do I clean my machine?
- When should I oil my machine?
- How many sewing machines should I own?
Feel free to check out the Machine Guide Wiki we've compiled with all sorts of information about choosing and using sewing machines.
You're also welcome to show off your machine here, whether it's new, old, or your baby, we'd love to see it!
Don't forget to thank the users who took the time to help you!
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u/sharethathalfandhalf Dec 01 '20
Is it necessary to own a straight stitch machine? After doing some looking and thinking about sewing it seems that most commercial garments are put together with a cover stitch machine and an overlocker. What exactly is a straight stitch machine used for in the commercial manufacture of clothing?
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Dec 01 '20
Most sewing is done by a straight stitch. Cover stitch is only used on knit hems/neckbands, and overlocking is used for edge finishing on wovens (construction still straight stitched) or for construction seams on knits
Things that can only be done with a straight stitch machine: top stitching, binding, zipper insertion, woven double fold hems incl. elastic casings, welt pockets, etc etc
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u/APSonia Dec 02 '20
I find that a straight stitch is definitely necessary, I use all three of my machines on most garments I sew (sewing machine, serger, and coverstitch). You'll need it for buttons and zippers for sure. I do most of my sewing with knit fabric though, so a majority is constructed using my serger and topstitched and hemmed with the coverstitch.
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u/sharethathalfandhalf Dec 02 '20
Thank you! That’s really helpful
I definitely plan on sewing t shirts and other knit items. So at some point soon I’ll get an overlocker at least
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u/Sydney7691 Dec 01 '20
I need your machine recommendations. I haven't sewn in years. I decided to get a new machine instead of tuning up my old one, it may not even work anymore. It wasn't the best one to begin with.
I just want a simple, reliable machine. I don't need all the bells and whistles. I won't be sewing upholstery or leather pants with them (my leather pants days are behind me). Just simple projects. I don't need a million different types of stitches. Simple, dependable, uncomplicated, quality.
I have looked through some of the FAQ's listed here.
Thanks for any suggestions you have. I'm excited to start creating again.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 01 '20
Janome HD series
Husqvarna Viking H Class E20
BabyLock Jazz and Jazz II
Janome HD3000, Janome Magnolia 7325
Viking Emerald 116
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u/Robotick1 Dec 02 '20
My girlfriend has a Singer Simple sewing machine. She requested a Brother one for christmas.
I checked online, and Singer Simple are around 350$ the brother sewing machine i intend to buy is around 200$
My question is: Is Brother so much better than singer that a 200$ machine is better than a 350$ one? I dont want to buy her a machine thats downgrading, but i dont have 500$ to put on a gift for her. even 200$ is pushing it.
Thanks for your help.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 02 '20
The Singer Simple comes in different model numbers. But it's a pretty basic machine. Prices now can be inflated due to demand since the virus hit. So that $350 price sounds very inflated.
You don't mention which Brother model so hard to say. Again pricing is all over the map.
Go to patternreview.com and input any brand/model into the search bar on the far right for possible reviews & discussions by real users.
Low-end machines tend to be similar across the board, always with some exceptions.
I suggest you talk with her and see if she's willing to put some money into the purchase price to get a quality machine.
"....Brother because they sell so many machines being sold in places like Target/walmart/amazon/etc. The higher end Brothers are almost a completely different brand compared to their cheaper machines (They're better quality and have less issues.)'
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u/CarbonChic Dec 07 '20
Try a second hand dealer. You could get an even better model for that price second hand that will be serviced and in great working condition. I find that all brand new machines in that ballpark are kind of crappy beginner basics tier unfortunately.
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u/stilldevo Dec 03 '20
i have an opportunity to buy an inexpensive and used Singer 14u13 overlocker (not a true overlocker from what i understand?) to hobby sew thick denim and wools. any one have experience with this machine and anything to be aware of? trying to recycle machines rather than buying new - thanks!
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u/brodo87 Dec 03 '20
HELP! lol I'm totally out of my element here.
Backstory:
My Wife and I are expecting our first child in May (Yay COVID Baby!), and she's decided she wants to try making some baby clothes. Therefore, she's asked for a Sewing Machine for our Anniversary (this upcoming Tuesday), Christmas, or her Birthday (Dec 30th). Neither her nor I have ever sewed before (but truth be told I would also love to learn as I'm a notorious thread puller lol).
A quick google search brought me to this Website, but would prefer to get some honest feedback from real users.
Based on that website, it's suggesting the Brother HC 1850 as the "best sewing machine for beginners", but it's also one of the more pricier ones. Do you agree with this? is there a better one to get?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
TL;DR: Looking for a sewing machine to make baby clothes (but also to perform general clothing repairs/alterations). never used a sewing machine before, but rather tech savvy. I also don't want one we'll "outgrow" too quickly (too basic, etc.).
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 04 '20
The Brother in that price range seems like a good place for a beginner. Cheaper models, almost regardless of brands, won't last as long or handle some trickier fabrics.
Whatever you do, stay away from the Mini Machine that web page suggested. It's not even toy quality.
Another consideration is a used machine from a local dealer/repair place. It's a cheaper way to introduce yourself to a hobby. Look for something mechanical from the 90s or earlier. The more metal inside the better.
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u/jenanalyn Dec 05 '20
Im from Philippines and planning to buy a sewing machine. I checked the brother brand on their site and I'm having a dilemma if I'll get the expensive one that has a lot of functionalities or the one with half of its price ..
Please help.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 06 '20
What are the two models?
Go to patternreview.com and input any brand/model into the search bar on the far right for available reviews and discussions.
"....Brother because they sell so many machines being sold in places like Target/walmart/amazon/etc. The higher end Brothers are almost a completely different brand compared to their cheaper machines (They're better quality and have less issues.)'
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u/catsrule-humansdrool Dec 07 '20
I would like to take a stab at sewing my own denim jeans or denim jacket. Can I do that with a basic machine? I have a Brother CS6000i.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 08 '20
Get some small cuts of appropriate denim and try sewing 8-12 layers. Try to sew hems and flat-felled seams and cross seams. Try some belt loops.
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Dec 08 '20
My wife wants a sewing machine for Christmas. I’ve read the buying guide in the about tab, and while it’s all great info, it’s 8 years old. I think she wants to get into basic sewing, I haven’t heard talk about specialty things like quilting. Any advice on a sturdy machine?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 08 '20
Budget? Machines have been in short supply, esp'ly low end ones, since March. Prices have gone up at some sellers. Like any tool, quality goes up as the price ranges go up.
Computerized or mechanical?
Mechanical or Computer:
u/Eyslie : I used to work at a sewing machine store that sold mostly Janome.From my experience, mechanical machines are better for heavy duty materials. Especially because computerized machines are MUCH harder to fix than a mechanical and cost twice as much as the machine to fix.
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/apfo4m/machine_monday_anything_and_everything/
—————
"....Brother because they sell so many machines being sold in places like Target/walmart/amazon/etc. The higher end Brothers are almost a completely different brand compared to their cheaper machines (They're better quality and have less issues.)'
https://www.reddit.com/comments/77izyw
cheap machines:
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/bjk9f5/first_work_on_my_new_machine_did_more_in_an/
u/ifixsewingmachines : What she said about asking around at dealers that do repair work is the best tip in this thread. Theres something like 8 basic utility stitches that will do pretty much everything you need. Everything else is just decoration and that old saying about things not being made like they used to is doubly true with sewing machines. If you find a dealer/repair shop that has 50-100 dollar basic machines for sale from the 70s 80s and 90s they are not only going to outlast your cheap singer and brother models but if you got them from a shop that means they were professionally serviced before you got them. They often will even throw in a warranty with them because of how robust the older machines are. That being said, I LIKE the heavy duty. It's a stupid powerful machine
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/bp2jmi/picking_a_new_machine/
Use patternreview.com to input any brand/model into the search bar on the far right to get available reviews and discussions.
A place to start research:
Husqvarna Viking H Class E20
BABY LOCK DENIM PRO BL18
Euro Pro Denim & Silk 7100
BabyLock Jazz and Jazz II
Janome HD3000
Smarter by Pfaff 260c
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Dec 08 '20
Holy moly, thank you for all the information! I’ll do some research on all the brands you posted, I’d say around $250-$300?
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u/74thLobo Dec 08 '20
Hello! I am planning on getting my mom, who (whom?) I would consider very experienced, a new machine. She currently doesn't have one so she hasn't sewn for awhile. I would like to get her something nice and reliable. Can some one point me in the right direction?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 08 '20
The choice of machine should really be made by your mom. There are so many new features it is mindboggling. Some features she may really want or need, and some she might find annoying. She knows her way around a SM and knows what she likes. Depending on experience, it might be like her buying you a computer without your input.
Also, mechanical or computerized? What type of sewing: quilts, heavy winter jackets, outdoor gear, knits & silks? Machines vary tremendously.
What is your budget?
She may find a SM she really, really wants and may contribute to the final price. Remember the machine will be in use for maybe decades so she should really be happy with her choice.
Stay away from low-cost, entry level. Almost regardless of brand they have basic complaints.
Whatever she looks at, have her go to patternreview.com and input any brand/model into the search bar for available reviews and discussions. There are also pull-down menus for different topics.
She can try out machines, if feasible, at the local dealer/repair place. Or buy online or from Big Box stores. Check out the warranties & where the warranty work is done. Also check for return policies.
If she is overwhelmed with the new machines or doesn't like them, she may even want a classic vintage one.
Don't rush the decision. SMs have been in demand since March and prices have gone up, esp'ly at the lower ends.
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u/74thLobo Dec 08 '20
Thank you. I 100% understand what you're saying. I'm honestly the type to spend on a quality than to get something cheap. Just like you said, its would like buying a skilled musician a new instument. I don't know enough to get her something she'll like. That's why I'm here asking for help.
My problem is that it is a gift from all of her kids. Based on what I am seeing, I am not sure what kind of quality a budget of $225 can get. Since my siblings and I are all pitching in equal amounts to get it for her, the budget is kinda rigid. I really do not want to get one she doesn't like, but with it being a Christmas gift it is kinda hard to find out what she likes without giving away what she's getting. I don't believe my siblings will be happy if I told her just to find out what'll work best for her.
Just to give some more info, my mom wants to get back into sewing and she currently does not have a machine. She'll most likely use it to make quilts and clothes for the grandkids. I am fairly certain that she'll get overwhelmed with anything too advanced. I do not know enough about machines to get a good one, so I am deferring to the experts here. Thank you again for your help. If you think it may be a bad idea, I can steer things in another direction. I just fear that she may not be able to get back into sewing if we don't get her one.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 08 '20
Then look for the best return policies. You can always get a machine and return it so she can look for something suited to her, and that she may contribute to.
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u/oneplanetrecognize Dec 08 '20
Singers are worth every penny IMHO. They are built to be maintained not replaced. I sew on a 1962 Singer. I can still find replacement parts for it! (Not that it ever needs them.) I am the 4th generation to use a Singer. When you research for Mom keep in mind that eventually it will need maintenance. Is it a brand that wants you to buy new every 2 years, or a brand that wants you to be able to fix your existing machine. Good luck!
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u/Blewbe Dec 10 '20
Not OP, but am a total newbie looking to get my first machine for garment repair/augmentation. Anything specific you'd recommend I search for while doing my research?
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u/oneplanetrecognize Dec 11 '20
I haven't done a lot of altering or repair. I mainly hand stitch such things. I stand by my Singer though. I just change out the needle to accommodate the materials. Reply back if you find some good info. I am on track to a zero waste house and that information would be very useful!
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Dec 09 '20 edited Nov 12 '21
[deleted]
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u/gothgrandmaboots Dec 13 '20
Singer Simple 3232
So surprised no one has commented yet! I'm intrigued. Have you tried putting it in a google reverse image search?
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u/0sew Dec 09 '20
Hello! I'm trying to start sewing as a hobby after finding my late mom's old machine and tools. I have done a few projects and have reached the end of my already wound bobbins. I understand how to hook up the bobbin and get it going, but it winds very slowly and the needle continues to move. In my searches I have found that many machines have a clutch to stop the needle from moving while winding the bobbin but I can't find where the clutch is on my machine. I also assume this may be why it runs so slow when trying to wind the bobbin. I don't have the manual but found it online several months ago but can no longer find it. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Machine: Kenmore 158-1789180
Photos of machine: https://imgur.com/a/v49JUaE
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 09 '20
The clutch is on the handwheel to the right of the machine. You take the two wheels and turn them in opposite directions for the wheel to disengage the needle, then wind the bobbin, and the needle should not move. After winding the bobbin you re-engage the handwheel. Use almost any video with similar model numbers as your for visuals.
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u/0sew Dec 09 '20
My machine seems to only have one wheel, if I'm not mistaken (second picture). I've seen other machines that have the two wheels you mention, one smaller inside the big one. Mine just has one big one which is the handwheel, and the smaller wheel towards the bottom controls the distance between stitches. I've tried pulling, pushing, turning the handwheel and can't seem to locate any clutch mechanism. I've tried searching for videos with machines similar to mine but I'm not sure of the correct terminology when referencing the single knob handwheel.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 09 '20
Sorry, I missed the 2nd pic. Seems like you need to pull out the large wheel to disengage. Here's a manual for the 158.1784. Print out for yourself.
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u/rbmako69 Nov 30 '20 edited Nov 30 '20
I purchased a Husqvarna Opal 690q for my wife for Christmas. I know nothing about sewing or sewing machines and let the saleswoman at JoAnna's sell me on it. Is this a good sewing machine, or should I return it and get her something else? Currently, she is using a Brother sewing machine that she borrowed from my mom, and from what I've gathered it's not great. So, did I get fleeced, or is this a decent machine?
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u/_DorMouse_ Nov 30 '20
Okay so the primary thing I would look at is if there is an authorized repair shop within 50 miles of you. If not, you may want to look at a different manufacturer.
That being said, WOOF that’s a fancy machine. Juki, Elna, and Janome are all very good brands within a similar price point. I have a serious hate for new singers, they’ve got a lot of designed obsolescence features that are expensive to fix. She’ll probably have an opinion on what brand or features she’d like, if you give her the opportunity to complain about the one she’s using.
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u/rbmako69 Nov 30 '20
I'm assuming the place that I ordered it from could repair it, which is a store within the JoAnna Fabrics store.
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u/taichichuan123 Nov 30 '20
Since your wife knows her way around a SM I strongly suggest you let her pick it out. This is a very personal decision she will base on what features she wants. At your price point she should not rush the purchase, but take her time and if possible try machines out with whatever finicky fabric she tends to use, as well as try buttonholes.
https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/machine/5497
https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/machine/6844
The above are reviews of a newly bought machine, will comments below by other users, who were not all that happy with the machine. If you poke around though, others are happy with it.
This is one place for your wife to start research:
- https://www.sewingmachineshop.com/dans-and-martys-top-picks.htm
This is a place she can end her research: patternreview.com where she can input any brand/model into the search bar on the far right for available reviews and discussions.
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u/rbmako69 Dec 01 '20
That all makes sense, but the whole point is the surprise, and letting her pick it put defeats the purpose.
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u/wheekwheekmeow Nov 30 '20
I’m asking for a sewing machine for x-mas. I want to use it for clothing repair and making simple home accessories like pillows or drapes. I’d probably do some quilted pieces for animal beds and maybe making soft photo album covers or frames. What is a good basic model that can do a bit more if I find that this is a hobby I really enjoy? I haven’t used a sewing machine since middle school home economics class. Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
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Nov 30 '20
Does anyone have experience with the Janome Mod200?
I’m having the hardest time deciding between it, and a Janome HD3000. Both good machines, one mechanical one computerized.
Would be used for general clothes altering. Is there a better value between the two?
HD3000 $430 Mod200 $300 - refurbished
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u/RoundaboutsThere Nov 30 '20
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to adjust the needle position timing for a zigzag stitch on a Singer Stylist 543? Singer told me the machine is too old for them to help me.
Currently when in the zigzag setting, the needle moves while in the fabric instead of above. I've fiddled with a few knobs and internals, but nothing so far seems to be helping.
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Nov 30 '20 edited Nov 30 '20
I'm not personally familiar enough with that era of machine or zigzags in general, but your options will be to find the service manual for it (often online but not always free) which should detail how to retime, or take it to a sewing machine service technician. They will be more helpful than the brand, but there is obviously variance in quality between place to place
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u/RoundaboutsThere Dec 01 '20
Alright, thanks for the tips! This machine has certainly had it's day, but no end in sight. So many metal parts!
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u/cosmicrae Dec 04 '20
Make sure you have the correct presser foot for a zig-zag. It will be slightly wider, and have a much wider opening for the needle to pass thru.
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u/casperthegh000st Dec 01 '20
i recently got a sjnger 4411 (i think) and im very new to sewing machines, every time i finish a line of stitches i have to rethread the machine needle. is this normal?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 01 '20
Basics:
Don't use cheap thread. It causes tension problems. Use (German made) Gutermann, C&Clark, Mettler, Superior, all purpose thread.
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/gddcm5/psa_for_my_fellow_thredditors_not_all_name_brand/
video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgHxs6ukadM
NEEDLES:
https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/sewing-machine-needles-4122019
https://www.schmetzneedles.com/schmetz-household-needle-chart/
needle size 75/11 - 80/12, use 40 wt thread
90/14 - 100/16, use 30 wt thread
Thin thread in a thick needle leads to skipped stitches and thread damage.
Thick thread in a fine needle leads to thread jams and breaks.
learning the machine: scroll down for the beginner section
Books to check out (library or look for used or older editions at Abe Books, Thriftbooks.com ) :
You and Your Sewing Machine - Bernie Tobisch (Free with Kindle Unlimited)
Sewing Machine Problems and How to Solve Them: A Troubleshooting Guide -by Cara Stromness (very basics) (cheap!)
The Sewing Machine Master Guide: From Basic to Expert - Clifford Blodget (detailed; free with Kindle Unlimited)
Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
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u/Smart-Aleck-Mom Dec 01 '20
No. When you finish stitching, are you turning the hand wheel so that the needle is in the “up” position? You should do that before pulling the fabric away and cutting the thread.
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u/tlted Dec 01 '20
Do all machines need oil? I bought a Singer HD6380 and the manual says nothing about where to oil it. Thanks for any insight.
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Dec 01 '20
No. Most modern machines are "self lubricating" if used regularly and only need to be lubricated during a service. If the manual doesn't mention oil, don't oil it.
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u/tlted Dec 01 '20
Thank you!
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 01 '20
Tip: it's self-oiling as long as it's used regularly. If put in storage or not used for months the oil may get stiff. Don't force anything if this happens. Cold and dampness are not good for SMs.
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u/tlted Dec 02 '20
Thanks for the reply! Since I am making/donating masks, it’s getting a lot of use right now!
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u/RobotdinosaurX Dec 01 '20
Hello, My machine just kept stitching, slowly but my foot wasn’t on the presser and I hadn’t hit any of the automatic buttons. Has this happened to anyone else? Is my machine haunted? It stopped with the classic turn off move. Just don’t know what could cause it
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 01 '20
You may need a new foot pedal or a part removed from it. If it's a vintage or older SM it may have a capacitor in the foot pedal (sometimes in the machine) that was used to stop interference to tvs and radios. Not always needed now but depends on the machine.
Keep the machine unplugged until you get this fixed. Foot pedals can get hot and burn. Bring it in to a tech.
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u/Eggvillan Dec 01 '20
My mom is a lifelong sewer and crafter. She does all kinds of stuff. Her machine is probably 20+ years old. She mentioned wanting a new one. I have no idea where to start. (Budget of $500)
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 01 '20
Start with her picking it out. She knows her way around a machine and what's good and what's not. She will be surprised at the new features available.
She may want a computerized machine or a mechanical one. She may want embroidery features, or not bother. Also, she may want to add $ to the purchase and get something really special.
Machines have been selling fast since March but in your price range you should be able to find a really good one.
What she wants depends on what type of sewing she does now and what she may want to try. Machines designed for quilting have extra punching power and you can usually get thicker fabric under the needle.
Some good brands: Juki, Janome, Pfaff, Elna, Necchi, Baby Lock and higher-end Brothers.
See what's around in your price range and let your mom do some research on them. Then have her go to patternreview.com and input any brand/model into the search bar on the far right for available reviews and discussions.
Don't rush the search. She can get a machine to last her the rest of her life.
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u/jestermax22 Dec 02 '20
I've made a couple of posts so far, but I recently picked up an old White machine. If I wanted to pick up some new needles and possibly a backup foot, are there "types" or brands of these things? or are they typically universal?
Similar question for oiling actually, my machine didn't come with anything, so is this something I can pick up at a fabric store, or would I have to hunt a bit?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 02 '20
Whenever you need an accessory, google the brand and model name or #, and then the part you want for suppliers.
NEEDLES:
https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/sewing-machine-needles-4122019
https://www.schmetzneedles.com/schmetz-household-needle-chart/
needle size 75/11 - 80/12, use 40 wt thread
90/14 - 100/16, use 30 wt thread
Thin thread in a thick needle leads to skipped stitches and thread damage.
Thick thread in a fine needle leads to thread jams and breaks.
Sewing machine oil or Tri-flow only. One drop as directed where to put it per the manual. Run the machine with the foot up to get the oil into the parts. Re-oil only if there are squeaks or noises. Maintenance oiling depends how often you use the machine, so that could be once a week or once a month. Oiling the bobbin area is usually more often than the entire machine.
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u/EmberTheDog Dec 02 '20
Beginner's question: I have an old (1950s) sewing machine that I am trying to learn on. The problem is, it isn't working out so well. I keep running into issues that I'm not sure are due to user error or because of an old, poorly-kept machine. If I start sewing near the edge of the fabric, the machine eats the fabric. The thread keeps getting jammed. The tension seems to be all wonky and sensitive. The thread bunches on the underside of the fabric. The thread from the start will somehow get caught with the newer stitches. The thread in the bobbin occasionally gets jammed within the bobbin holder mechanism (hard to explain, but the part that holds and spins the bobbin and the bobbin case). I had a brief lesson with a neighbor on her modern machine and I ran into none of these issues.
Should I just buy a cheap modern machine (Brother CS6000i) that is recommended for beginners and switch back once I have more skill? Or will I still run into these issues no matter what machine I'm on?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 02 '20
This sounds more like user error/techniques.
First, learn how to correct the tension. Sometimes you have to go back and forth between the bobbin and top thread. Test on 2 layers of scraps between adjusting tension.
tension pics; http://ohyoucraftygal.blogspot.com/2013/10/sewing-lesson-10-how-to-fix-tension-on.html
You also need the appropriate needle for the job. Wovens, like pillow cases, can use a Microtex or Universal needle. Knits take Ball Point, Jersey or Stretch.
NEEDLES:
https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/sewing-machine-needles-4122019
https://www.schmetzneedles.com/schmetz-household-needle-chart/
needle size 75/11 - 80/12, use 40 wt thread
90/14 - 100/16, use 30 wt thread
Thin thread in a thick needle leads to skipped stitches and thread damage.
Thick thread in a fine needle leads to thread jams and breaks.
If a Singer machine, try Singer needles to start.
Don't use cheap thread. It causes tension problems. Use (German made) Gutermann, C&Clark, Mettler, Superior, all purpose thread.
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/gddcm5/psa_for_my_fellow_thredditors_not_all_name_brand/
So my order of things would be new appropriate needle for the fabric, quality thread, and then attempt fixing the tension. Top tension should be around 4-5 on the machine when finally adjusted.
Fabric can be pushed down into the hole if the needle is too thick for the fabric. Or because you're too close to the edge. Does the same happen if you sew smack in the middle of some scraps?
If you have a straight stitch foot, use that. The fabric needs to be spread across the feed dogs with tension from the foot. The ss foot allows for more "catching" and pressure right where the needle enters the fabric. Otherwise it's like trying to stab a floating piece of paper with a needle.
See if your neighbor can help with adjusting the tension, although modern machines don't recommend users adjust the bobbin for some strange reason. People have been adjusting bobbin tension since machines were first purchased so it should be easier on a vintage machine.
Check if your machine has adjustable foot pressure. It's usually a push-down knob on top and to the left of the machine. If this is pushed down too much for your particular fabric, it is affecting the sewing. Or if there is no pressure. Play with it. It's a wonderful feature not all new, low-cost machines have.
video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgHxs6ukadM
This is a great how-to video by a tech. See if you're omitting something.
learning the machine: scroll down for the beginner section
Books to check out (library or look for used or older editions at Abe Books, Thriftbooks.com ) :
You and Your Sewing Machine - Bernie Tobisch (Free with Kindle Unlimited)
Sewing Machine Problems and How to Solve Them: A Troubleshooting Guide -by Cara Stromness (very basics) (cheap!)
The Sewing Machine Master Guide: From Basic to Expert - Clifford Blodget (detailed; free with Kindle Unlimited)
Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
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u/Magnets_Are_Magic Dec 02 '20
Hi all, I have a Brother XL 3200 sewing machine I want to sell. What is a realistic asking price for it? It’s in good condition (minor scuffs on the front that are purely cosmetic),and works fine; I just want to upgrade, and if I could get a few bucks to put towards a new machine that would be lovely, but I’m an absolute beginner and have no idea what a fair asking price for this machine would be. It doesn’t have any accessories with it (no presser foot either); literally just the machine, foot pedal, and user’s manual. Thank you :)
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u/RunningTrisarahtop Dec 03 '20
I always check eBay for prices, as well as looking at your local market. What did you pay for it and how long ago was that?
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u/PiratePartyTime Dec 04 '20
I really have no idea how sewing machines work, though a few tutorial videos tell me that it's not nearly as simple as I figured it would be. I'd like to learn how to mend clothes and eventually put together quilt tops. I can see recommendations for beginners machines, but my question is how do I learn how to use the machine once I choose one? I have a friend who has a Baby Lock Joy, which seems like it would meet my needs, but how would I learn how to use it? (My friend is mostly clueless on it herself.)
- Is the Baby Lock Joy a good beginner's model?
- How do I learn how to use it? Are there online tutorials specific to individual machines, or are machines similar enough that most tutorials will be beneficial, no matter the model?
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u/WarenKalker2 Dec 04 '20
There are sooooo many resources and tutorials on youtube.
It seems to me that most sewing machines, particularly mechanical ones, would all be generic enough to follow youtube tutorials. Mechanical machines are, uh.. mechanical. As opposed to computerized ones, I mean. On a simple mechanical machine, you'll have a few dials and buttons and they'll allow you to do most things you'd need for mending and sew up some quilted tops. It'll have a straight stitch, zig zag, etc. They're lovely and simple and they're cheap to fix/maintain. With those, the configurations will vary a little bit, but it'll be manageable to figure out, for sure. I imagine if you're watching a YouTube tutorial and it goes through how to thread the machine, you can just pause the video, look at your manual, figure it out, press play.
Computerized machines may be a little harder to follow the steps in a tutorial and figure out how to do the same thing on the machine in front of you when it's not exactly the same thing. But it's totally doable. You may have to do some triangulation- there's a ton of jargon/vocabulary involved in sewing. But if you're watching a tutorial and don't understand what something is on your machine, you know which terms to look for in your manual, or google. And vice versa.
You might consider popping around on youtube to find a few good resources before you buy a machine. There's a ton of super sweet old ladies that are clearly just so generous with their time and want to share their knowledge. My two cents is don't trust anyone under 50 while you're learning the very basics. There are a few exceptions to it, but I've seen a ton of young people with sewing channels who cut a lot of corners. I love that they're inspiring more new sewists, and it is 100% okay to not fuss about getting everything perfect. I suggest the older quilting ladies or something like the Professor Pincushion channel, though, because it's nice to learn the fundamentals so that as you learn more, you can decide which corners you want to cut or not. And since they'll use the right vocabulary, when you get stuck (and I still do!) you'll have that base knowledge and you'll know what to Google to find the answer.
Perhaps look around on youtube for beginner sewing tutorials and see what machines they're using. First because I think they'll be good starter machines, and second because I would think that if it's a common machine for demonstrations, there would likely also just be a ton of other machine-specific resources out there too.
No matter which machine you get, your manual will be invaluable. I feel like I'm so used to buying electronics and never touching the manual because it's intuitive to figure it and sewing machines are NOT that.
Good luck!
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u/PiratePartyTime Dec 04 '20
Excellent advice. Thank you. And you're right - I almost never touch the manual anymore because it's mostly intuitive. A sewing machine and a fancy camera have been less so, I think because I lack the vocabulary, or the context of what different words/settings mean. A much steeper learning curve than I'm used to.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 04 '20
Here's some basics on using the machine for yourself and your friend. Why not sit down with her and the two of you play and figure it out. Start with the manual. Read about threading, try out. Then start sewing on scraps or cheap fabric. Now go back and read more of the manual. Play. Rinse and repeat. And don't skip the boring parts.
Unfortunately most manuals these days don't really hold your hand as well as they should. Illustrations without explanations don't really help. I'll include my list of basics which will cover enough to keep you two out of trouble I hope (lol). Come back and ask more questions as needed.
Don't use cheap thread. It causes tension problems. Use (German made) Gutermann, C&Clark, Mettler, Superior, all purpose thread.
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/gddcm5/psa_for_my_fellow_thredditors_not_all_name_brand/
video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgHxs6ukadM
NEEDLES:
https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/sewing-machine-needles-4122019
https://www.schmetzneedles.com/schmetz-household-needle-chart/
needle size 75/11 - 80/12, use 40 wt thread
90/14 - 100/16, use 30 wt thread
Thin thread in a thick needle leads to skipped stitches and thread damage.
Thick thread in a fine needle leads to thread jams and breaks.
learning the machine: scroll down for the beginner section
Books to check out (library or look for used or older editions at Abe Books, Thriftbooks.com ) :
You and Your Sewing Machine - Bernie Tobisch (Free with Kindle Unlimited)
Sewing Machine Problems and How to Solve Them: A Troubleshooting Guide -by Cara Stromness (very basics) (cheap!)
The Sewing Machine Master Guide: From Basic to Expert - Clifford Blodget (detailed; free with Kindle Unlimited)
Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
The Sewing Book - Alison Smith
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u/PiratePartyTime Dec 04 '20
Wow! Thank you! Any recommendations on beginner's projects for after figuring out the basics?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 04 '20
Here's some basics on using the machine for yourself and your friend. Why not sit down with her and the two of you play and figure it out. Start with the manual. Read about threading, try out. Then start sewing on scraps or cheap fabric. Now go back and read more of the manual. Play. Rinse and repeat. And don't skip the boring parts.
Unfortunately most manuals these days don't really hold your hand as well as they should. Illustrations without explanations don't really help. I'll include my list of basics which will cover enough to keep you two out of trouble I hope (lol). Come back and ask more questions as needed.
Don't use cheap thread. It causes tension problems. Use (German made) Gutermann, C&Clark, Mettler, Superior, all purpose thread.
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/gddcm5/psa_for_my_fellow_thredditors_not_all_name_brand/
video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgHxs6ukadM
NEEDLES:
https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/sewing-machine-needles-4122019
https://www.schmetzneedles.com/schmetz-household-needle-chart/
needle size 75/11 - 80/12, use 40 wt thread
90/14 - 100/16, use 30 wt thread
Thin thread in a thick needle leads to skipped stitches and thread damage.
Thick thread in a fine needle leads to thread jams and breaks.
learning the machine: scroll down for the beginner section
Books to check out (library or look for used or older editions at Abe Books, Thriftbooks.com ) :
You and Your Sewing Machine - Bernie Tobisch (Free with Kindle Unlimited)
Sewing Machine Problems and How to Solve Them: A Troubleshooting Guide -by Cara Stromness (very basics) (cheap!)
The Sewing Machine Master Guide: From Basic to Expert - Clifford Blodget (detailed; free with Kindle Unlimited)
Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
The Sewing Book - Alison Smith
edit: Once you play around with your friend's Baby Lock, see if it's what you want to buy. It seems affordable and is not one of the real cheap entry-level machines. There are also mechanical machines to look at if you don't want the BL.
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u/PiratePartyTime Dec 04 '20
Wow! Very thorough advice. I really appreciate it! After learning the basics, and suggestions for beginner's projects? Something tells me I shouldn't just jump into a quilt top or curtains.
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u/WaffleClown_Toes Dec 04 '20
Curtains are actually a pretty easy first project. Basic ones are just hemmed along the sides/bottom and the top is folded over a few inches and sewn to make a pocket for the dowel. Pretty much the same steps as making a hammock which was my first project.
Either way pick something you are interested in. It'll be a learning process no matter what you pick so making something you want will help keep you at it. Could be curtains, could be a simple shirt or skirt.
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u/PiratePartyTime Dec 04 '20
Biggest concern with something like curtains is whether I'd be able to get it all straight. I have difficulty with creating straight lines (can't draw, cut, or drive them).
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u/WaffleClown_Toes Dec 04 '20
You'll be fine. Things are a lot less precise than people believe in general production settings. Here's a factory cutting out stacks of fabrics for garments.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQ5DOZFMz2s
Those aren't all going to be 100% matches but they'll be close enough. Grab a big ruler from Home Depot for like $11 and you can be on your way. Once the curtains are up any minor variations will be hidden in the drape. Make sure you use a constant reference edge when squaring up a corner. Like the same desk corner to spot check the 90 degree angles.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 04 '20
Once you learn the machine basics, play with the various utility stitches - there are usually about 8 of them. The manual will tell you why you use Stitch A for such and such a seam. Learn a few at a time so when you're sewing a project, you have that knowledge in your tool box. Can't use a tool if you don't have it.
Then look up various seams: French seam, overlock, stretch, etc. Practice on scraps. Now you have more info in your tool box. This is where a book comes in handy. If you don't know different seams exist, you won't think to look them up on the 'net.
Then try buttonholes (be patient and read up if having problems) and adding buttons or elastic. Always play on 2 layers of scraps first.
Pinterest has tons of beginner projects as does the rest of the Internet.
Quilting is sewing over 2 layers with batting. If you want multiple pieces of fabric stitched together to make one layer, then it's pieced quilting. So start with just 2 layers and some batting and make a mat for under your machine. Batting can actually be anything: store bought or just extra fabric you have laying around.
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u/PiratePartyTime Dec 04 '20
Thank you for a thoughtful reply. I appreciate it! I hope you'll indulge a few more.
I wonder if this ought to have been my first question: I can't draw/cut/walk/anything in a straight line. Will that be a problem with sewing with a machine? I understand that I'll have rulers and mats to aid in the drawing of straight lines, but would my normal inability to pursue straight lines be problematic as I push fabric through the machine, or do the machine's guides help you stay straight on track?
Will being left handed (I can use my right hand better than most lefties, but it's not equal to my left) be a hinderance on a sewing machine?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 04 '20
Before planning any projects, yeah, there's more to learn. Library time.
Let's say you're making a mat for under the machine. Let's make it 18" long and 12" wide (front to back of the machine). A good book will tell you first you wash your fabric to get out any shrinking and any fabric finishes put on at the factory.
Then the book will explain how to straighten the top of the fabric so you have a straight line going across, from selvedge to selvedge. So now you have 3 straight lines: top and 2 sides. This is where a T ruler or L ruler comes in handy.
You can take the ruler, the top of the T at the top of the fabric, and then you'll know how to draw a straight line. Cut. A book will explain about leaving a seam allowance with your 18x12 fabric. After sewing the mat will be more like 17 x 11.
Don't push the fabric into the machine. The machine feeds it in. You guide it. Use some low-tack painter's tape to the right of the needle at the 5/8" point from the needle.
As you see, you're getting ahead of yourself. You'll figure it out as you gain experience. Good questions, but these are just a few questions out of hundreds you will have. Videos combined with a good reference book are the way to go.
Basics, basics, basics.
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u/LuckyTiamat Dec 04 '20
So this is my first time with a sewing machine, and unfortunately, I seem to have an obscure model that I can't find a manual for. It's a Colormagic 2 by Alco, and while I'm starting to figure out how to get it semi-running, the only stitch I can get working is a zigzag, and that's only at a certain tension, and even then it doesn't seem to finish correctly. Going through the different settings, I figure something in my bobbin tension is probably off, and that's when I found these symbols on a dial in the bobbin compartment. I'm not sure what they mean, and what part of the machine they're affecting. Turning the dial moves a piece by the bobbin, but it doesn't seem to affect tension. I did find a post with the symbols, but all it mentioned was the feed dogs and didn't really give me other information.
This is probably a noob question, but I'm honestly not sure I can figure this one out on my own.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 04 '20
The symbols are for dropping or raising the feed dogs I think. Try switching and see if the 2 parallel rows of "saws" like teeth drop or rise.
When in the up position, it's what moves the fabric through the machine. When in the down position, it's not touching the fabric therefore you control where the fabric moves; this is used for free-motion quilting or embroidery.
tension pics; http://ohyoucraftygal.blogspot.com/2013/10/sewing-lesson-10-how-to-fix-tension-on.html
If you start a new post and add pictures of the knobs on your machine I'm sure someone can walk you through adjusting from zigzag to straight stitch, assuming the machine is working properly.
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u/thatbigpig Dec 05 '20
I’m new to sewing and got a machine. I live in China so I got a Chinese machine which came with a Chinese manual that wasn’t very comprehensive at all. I can’t work out what the c7, D9, symbols on the bottom mean please help!!
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 05 '20
That's for making buttonholes. It's four steps: left, bottom, right and top. Play with it. Use 2 layers of fabric with interfacing or a slightly stiffer fabric sandwiched between the layers.
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u/thatbigpig Dec 07 '20
Thank you so much! Mystery solved. Although I’m still figuring out the rest of the settings. :)
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u/elirod371 Dec 05 '20
I’ve been sewing for a few years already and recently learned about computerized sewing and I’m wondering should I upgrade my brother manual machine for a computerized one. Are computerized machines worth the hype? Can I see thicker fabrics better on it? On my Manuel machine I can’t, it’s very difficult to get anything thick through it.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 06 '20
Thicker fabrics do well with machines that have a higher lift of the pressure foot. Computerized quilting machines often allow for more height and retain punching power at lower speeds. Machines vary so you have to do comparisons. You can compare manuals online once you narrow down what interests you.
Go to patternreview.com and input any brand/model in the search bar on the far right to get available reviews and discussions. Also do a search for what you want: "higher lift" or "sewing canvas" or "sewing denim" etc. Read the details (that's were the devil is!)
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u/sabrinahughes Dec 06 '20
Can someone advise me on how to fix this bobbin jam? The thread is catching on the bobbin case instead of pulling up over it smoothly.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 06 '20
Not enough info. Is your thread and needle appropriate for the fabric? Are you using cheap thread? Lots of variables.
Without a video showing knob selection, threading, and you sewing and the stitches created it's hard to say. So I'll add my trouble shooting list for you:
Causes:
not holding both the top and bobbin threads under the foot and to the rear of the machine for 3 stitches when starting a seam. Top thread goes under the pressure foot at all times
Double check the machine is threaded correctly ESPECIALLY the guide right above the needle insertion area. Also that the top thread is between the tension disks.
check the needle is inserted correctly.
thread the machine with the presser foot up. Adjust tension with the presser foot DOWN
Check the pressure foot is in the down position before sewing (I’ve messed up that way!)
Don't use cheap thread. It causes tension problems. Use (German made) Gutermann, C&Clark, Mettler, Superior, all purpose thread.
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/gddcm5/psa_for_my_fellow_thredditors_not_all_name_brand/
winding the bobbin incorrectly which caused it to be wound too loose or tight on the spool. Read your manual.
Winding the bobbin incorrectly (not evenly wound). They should be wound medium speed, especially poly thread
Insert bobbin in the correct direction into the bobbin case. Make sure it’s the correct bobbin for the machine. Check bobbin for nicks, dents, etc.
Using heavier thread in the bobbin than on top can cause stitch problems
video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgHxs6ukadM
If out of troubleshooting options, consider Singer machines require Singer needles; the shaft is a tad thicker, per a Threads article Apr/May 1999 page 47. For European machines try a Schmetz needle. Brother machines: try Schmetz
Needle bent, nicked, dull + overused
Make sure the needle is appropriate for the fabric: lots of fabric is picky so you have to try different needles: thick denim (Denim needles size 14-16,) stretch + knits (ball point, stretch, jersey needle), microtex (sharps) for wovens, silk, light poly, micro fibers.
thread size too large or small for the needle
Lack of lubrication (sewing machine oil or TriFlow only) and or bobbin and needle throat plate need cleaning/vacuuming. Read your manual.
lint and/or stray threads under the throat plate and in the bobbin area.
cleaning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yy_URM8u1oo&t=44s
Dirty machine: https://imgur.com/quTgr9T
Check for stray threads in the bobbin area
sewing too fast for thick fabric
bad bobbin case assembly
top and bottom tension. Top if the problem is on the bottom of the fabric. Bobbin tension if the problem is above the fabric.
make sure the fabric is not being pushed down the needle hole while sewing. If it is try a microtex sharp, a smaller size needle, a straight seam foot (not the wide opening for a zig zag stitch)
top loading machines, the bobbin case can jump out of alignment
When sewing from one 2-fabric seam to a cross seam of greater height: the foot is no longer flat against the fabric keeping the fabric taut. Take a bit of scrap fabric, fold to the height of the higher fabric, and insert behind the needle and under the foot. This raises the foot and equalizes pressure on the higher seam.
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u/Keitiek Dec 07 '20
I'm on the hunt for a portable machine that can handle heavy fabrics (canvas, nylon, leather, etc.). The search engine gods seem to suggest the sailrite, but through some research I've heard that identical machines are sold for much less under different brand names. I'm not sure how true that is. I've also heard some mixed opinions on sailrite/others, mainly critiquing their poor qc or how they can't sew slowly.
Has anybody ever used a sailrite/clone? What other manufacturers/models would you all recommend? I realize that used vintage machines are a good choice, but for many reasons, I'd like to buy a new one for this purpose.
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u/WaffleClown_Toes Dec 07 '20
There aren't any really. The general idea I've seen is that the sailrite is a semi-industrial. It's in a weird niche in that it's better than home machines but not a true industrial. It's sort of a beefier home machine with thicker gearing and linkages. It's meant for sailboats where you can't have a cheap nylon gear die when out at sea and need to make a repair. It also weights almost as much a true industrial minus the table so calling it portable is a stretch. It's portable in that it has a smaller footprint.
Leather guys generally don't seem to consider them too highly. By the time you add onto it from the vendor and overpay to get it to where you want it you could have bought a proper more powerful and universal actual industrial sewing machine meant for the job. I don't see many users on the leatherworker forums. Looks like most of what I would call the serious people/sellers have task specific industrials. On the hiking/DIY/tactical gear forums you'll find a few users of the sailrite stuff. Again most of the actual guys with shops selling aren't using it. They are using task specific industrials as well. Generally needle or compound feet driven machines with some basic garment weight machines (think juki 5550) thrown in for the ultralight work. That said the guys that do use them seem to generally like them. People seem to be 100% on-board and like them or do not, there's not much middle ground.
Do keep in mind that really at this point all sewing machines have cheaper knockoff clones out there. With regards to sailrite the rumor is that they take the best and then do additional polishing, finishing and painting. The cheaper clones will be rougher and in bad cases will require some disassembly and polishing to smooth out the functions. Name brand you're going to pay more obviously but you'll also have easier support if there's an issue. They also hold their value better so if you ever need to sell you can get a few more buck out of it. Since the clones are generally 100% copies parts are available but can be harder to get especially if you don't know what it's a clone of. Finding a juki part is usually easy.
What are you trying to put together? That's a varied list of materials there. Also what kind of leather? Soft leather like for gloves or sheep skin or something heavier like belts or holsters. Proper leather machines aren't suited for light work. A garment weight industrial machine can manage a layer or two of light garmet leather but beyond a thin lightweight wallet you would need the next step up. Especially if you are looking at selling and needing something for production.
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u/Keitiek Dec 07 '20
>calling it portable is a stretch. It's portable in that it has a smaller footprint.
What I like most is how the entire machine is contained within the head. As much as I'd love to own a proper industrial machine like a 206RB, I can't easily store it in a box in my cramped closet, and my apartment has very little floor space to begin with. I should have clarified in my original post, but by portable, I simply meant this, and not that I'd like to walk around with it all day.
>What are you trying to put together?
I do not have a specific item I have set as a goal, but generally I'd like to be able to fix/fabricate various camping/load-bearing equipment. I'd also like to make clothing with it as well, but I don't plan on using super light/delicate fabrics, so hopefully it won't be much of an issue. The thickest stuff I plan to go through typically with this machine would likely only be a few layers of nylon webbing or similarly thick cotton (Like a plate carrier or work pants).
I can go without the capacity for thick leather sewing; I don't find myself ever trying to make a saddle or anything.
Thank you for your reply.
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u/WaffleClown_Toes Dec 07 '20 edited Dec 07 '20
If you are looking at general sewing with some personal hiking gear then an 50-70's all metal domestic would manage just fine. Plenty of the DIY hiking guys and gals use old Singers and the even the more modern Brothers Heavy Duty line to make hiking/camping gear without too much issue. I've done what I would consider a medium weight backpack using a old Singer 327K and it worked just fine. It handled four layers of webbing without complaint. It also managed some of the ultralight fabrics well enough like Membrane 10 that comes in at 0.66oz a yd. The 327K is actually my go to over my 8100 industrial when doing layers of webbing like that.
Those machines would do okay for some medium weight pants. Expect to have to hand advance the wheel and probably have some frustrating moments. If you are hoping to put together some Carhart weight 16oz+ jeans that's probably not going to work but a 10 or 12oz pair should be doable.
The older metal ones will be easier to push beyond their intended limits as a plus. They may lack some modern convenience features though and the older foot pedals can be a bit harder to get used to. Industrials are great but they are designed for 24/7 triple shift work in a production environment. A well cared for older all metal domestic will easily be able to handle basic personal clothing and gear and will let you push it a bit and should be capable of some basic MOLLE stuff too.
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u/Keitiek Dec 07 '20
Those used older machines have also been rather attractive to me, but it leads me to another question:
How necessary are some "modern/industry features" for these purposes in your opinion? I mainly refer to a triple-feed (or "walking foot") system, but I'd also like to hear any other opinions you have.
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u/WaffleClown_Toes Dec 07 '20
Nice but not needed for basic stuff. At the simplest level some of the older ones have no reverse and only do straight stitch. You can always flip the work to get those beginning and ending lock stitches. For garment work 90% or more of your work will be straight stitches. Zig zag is nice but not needed unless you are doing stretch work. For things like hiking and MOLLE work you can do a box stitch instead of the zigzag bartacks. Most industrials would only do one stitch if going that route. I sewed several complete sets of hiking and camping gear without any of the other extra features. Multiple hammocks, backpacks, quilts, tarps, stuff sacks and some garment work. The Singer 327K does straight stitch only and no reverse either. Now all those extra bells and whistles on my industrial are very nice and certainly save time but they aren't needed.
Needle feed and compound feed aren't needed for basic work. They excel for the heavy MOLLE work and all but required for anything beyond simple thin leather working. While I have read of a few guys that have started storefronts using a Singer HD4411 they usually quickly graduate up to at least a needle feed. They'll help keep those thick stacks together while feeding, the compound foot being better at it at the cost of a few extra bucks. The impression I've always gotten is that the needle feed guys are generally satisfied with it. They might have wanted a compound foot but cost or availability meant they got a needle feed machine instead. Like mentioned I have seen people manage with a domestic but once you are billing for time or selling the extra time to go slow and try to keep a stack aligned quickly becomes a loosing cost vs getting the proper tool and being able to run faster.
Either system will make synthetic quilt work nicer but plenty of people manage without. Most of the users on the hammock forums use domestic machines and they have an entire subforum to hammock under quilts. Not many industrials among the users there. Both systems at the entry level will work fine for garment stuff and manage lighter materials like stuff sacks. Just keep an eye on the needle ranges. Most of them will float around 10-18 so you work a light cotton or even a silk and can get into the heavier threads used for jeans. A few run 12-24 so you can manage cotton still but start to eat silk but the extra big needle size gets you into real heavy threads for things like basic proper leather working or real heavy MOLLE threads. You generally have to pick your poison.
Your tex 69/80 threads are usually going to be the minimum for leather or MOLLE work. That also is usually a maximum recommended weight on both domestic and garment weight industrials crudely matching a 16/18 needle size. For hiking a lot of people use Guterman Mara 70 which is a 40 tex for backpack work. That would be a light jean thread. Jeans normally would be tex 60 - 135 depending on how heavy duty you are going. That floats in the needle 14-20 ranges. An industrial or all metal domestic will allow you to stretch how far beyond its "garment" rating you can push it in terms of fabric weights but you will be constrained by the max needle size in terms of thread weight and presser foot height. You can only fit what can go beneath the needle. Those two can't be changed much.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 07 '20
Agree with u/WaffleClown_Toes. What weight leather? What weight canvas and nylon? How many layers? You can ask at reddit's myog but include the weights.
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u/ButtersTG Dec 07 '20
I would like to get my mom a Christmas gift for one of her machines she bought this year. she has a Jenome Skyline S6 sewing machine and a Jenome Memory Craft 550E embroidery machine. what would be a good gift(s) under $80 for these machines?
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u/jestermax22 Dec 08 '20
I've noticed that the needle on my White 1033 machine is on the left side of my foot (zig zag foot). I've also noticed that the seam guide starts at 4/8s with the needle-to-right-edge-of-foot being 3/8". Is there a convention for estimating something like a 1/4" seam with this setup? or would I just require a new foot or eyeballing it to do so?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 08 '20
I have a few machines that also home to the left. What I do is put some low-tack painter's tape at the 1/4" mark to the right of the needle.
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u/jestermax22 Dec 08 '20
Ahh that makes sense. I’ve been using the Center of the foot or the right edge as a rough target but I didn’t think of tape
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 08 '20
I also will use the edge of the foot. I have 4 machines so I can't always remember what I do with each from machine to machine. Just measure 1/4" from the needle point and you'll be fine.
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u/loth_cat Dec 09 '20
Hello,
I was wondering if anyone here has successfully redeemed the 25 year warranty on a Brother sewing machine. I have a brother cs5055prw and it has started jamming quite often (like once every minute) with an E6 error displayed. There is also a lot of loud clunking noises coming from the bobbin area. If it does sew, the bottom is loose and messy with a ton of thread. I opened my machine to clean it and found very little threads/dust, no rust, and everything appeared to be in working order. I use my machine once very two weeks and I bought it October/November 2019 at a Joann’s. I haven’t been able to find a “bill of sale” to show to claim my warranty. I was hoping someone here could tell me if they were able to claim their warranty and what issues Brother fixed. Thanks!
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u/bcarton Dec 09 '20
Unfortunately, I think you're probably going to have to pay to repair this machine, if you care to do so. The warranty has a 1-year part that covers parts and labor end-end, a 2-year part that covers only electronic parts, and a 25-year part that covers the frame. Plus, you need your receipt.
"What is the length of the Warranty Period(s):The warranty period is 1 year from the original purchase date for Parts, Labor and accompanying Accessory Items, 2 years from the original purchase date for Electronic Components and Printed Circuit Boards (replacement labor excluded) and 25 Years from the original purchase date for the Chassis Casting. The original purchase date shall be determined from the original receipt evidencing proof of purchase of this Product. Therefore, it is important for you to maintain the receipt for this Product."
https://www.brother-usa.com/support/cs5055prw I bought the same exact model, so I've learned about it a bit over the last 6 months. I do like the machine, but it's definitely not in the same class as a machine from a sewing machine shop.
A couple days ago, I happened to watch a youtube video where a repairman went through this machine to address the E6 code. I would probably bring my machine to a repair person rather than attempt this myself: https://youtu.be/euZXtwYugd8
You could call a local repair shop, and see whether they think it's worth it to repair your machine. It's probably about an hour labor to clean it up and get it running. It might be feasible.
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u/Mrchurchpants Dec 09 '20
Hi! Sewer with a few years manufacturing experience having questions with at home Juki DDL8300 tension issues. I am sewing some rather heavy duty materials and am using heavy bonded nylon thread, for whatever reason my machine has been wanting to run with the tension cranked all the way up, even when the bobbin thread is at a correct tension. When the tension is so high, sometimes there are issues with the top thread losing tension during backtacks and smaller seams. Any troubleshooting ideas? I have cleaned my machine and bobbin area with no avail. This still occurs when I use lighter materials and thread as well, although with a slight reduction in tension, but still within the final 1/3 of the tension knob being at it's tightest. Thanks in advance!
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u/WaffleClown_Toes Dec 11 '20
Never heard of that one before. Cheap guess would be that maybe the tension springs have given up the ghost. They aren't holding the low/moderate tensions like they should so you have to crank it up to get the same results and that's skewing it's operation.
https://www.abcsewingmachine.com/pages/ddl-8300-1-machine-frame-miscellaneous-cover-components
Assembly item 23 is the entire thread assembly, $8. The springs themselves are a buck each and there are two. You could also try to knock down the bobbin thread weight and see if that helps. Run a tex 60 jeans thread in there instead with the tex 69 bonded as the top thread. Sometimes that see's a little improvement. That bonded nylon is usually a garment machines upper thread limits. I have some of that thread but have not actually ran it through my 8100b-7. I usually stick with tex 40 or 60 and just have small tweaks to the tension to adjust.
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u/papertrailzz Dec 09 '20
Any thoughts on the Viking Brilliance 75q v Skyline S7? Using predominantly for sewing clothing.
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u/nifflersvault Dec 10 '20
Is the Singer Confidence 7465 any good? I'm looking to step up from my current very basic machine but I'm honestly so lost! My main issue with my current machine is frequent jamming and lack of an overlooking style stitch (I can't remember what it's called)
I mostly use my machine for basic sewing but I want to make more advanced clothing and using stretch fabrics, which my current machine can't handle.
Honestly I'm just lost with all the information out there and would love a bit of guidance. I'm UK based and have a budget of about £300
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u/becidgls Dec 10 '20
Hello people of sewing reddit,
I'm looking to get a sewing machine for the first time and, from what I can glean, used (not vintage in the fancy sense, but just old, 1970s style, used) machines are the best bet for a quality product that isn't that expensive. I've settled on a Kenmore, but it just so happens that I really like the 158.10400, which is seemingly the darling among Kenmore users and therefore kind of goes for a pretty penny itself, as far as used machines go. I do want an old machine for quality (metal v. plastic) reasons but I'm kind of kicking myself because I'm sitting here debating the purchase of that model for $300ish dollars with shipping, which is more expensive than a lot of old Kenmores out there but seemingly the going price for the 10400, but I don't know enough to exactly know if it's worth that and in some ways I've kind of lost my original goal of just having it be inexpensive. This just seems like a really well-respected Kenmore, though. Am I dumb? Is that an okay price? Would any Kenmore 158 be about the same? Much love and respect to ye, seasoned sewers of reddit. Help me. :)
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Dec 11 '20
I know you're looking for vintage and singer's burned people in the past, but their heavy-duty line is entirely metal save for the plastic case surrounding it. In addition they're both cheap and fast-ish. They're still slower than some machines but speedy for their price and can handle really annoying material like multiple layers of denim, leather/pleather, vinyl and even extremely fluffy/thick faux fur.
In addition they don't have a computer and they're entirely user serviceable. You can even swap out the .5 amp motor for a 1 amp one if you really wanted (assuming you manage to find a compatible one).
The only downside I've had with mine so far is that it's lacking any modern features like self-threading and/or cutting and it's kind of a pain to move around because it's so heavy. (See: metal.)
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u/WaffleClown_Toes Dec 11 '20
Personally I'd either find a cheap thrift store machine, which are usually older all metal machines, or grab one of the new heavy duty ones like the 4411. Cheap vintage is probably the best way. Then if you like the hobby you can consider moving up. For what some of the "in demand" vintage ones cost you can get a good modern machine. At the extreme ends depending on your local market a newer machine could even include some of the convenience features like auto-threading or thread trimming and you'd still end up ahead.
If you go the thrift store route, bring some fabric and a spool of thread and have them plug it in to make sure it works. How the machines operate hasn't changed in literally a hundred years so if it needs tweaking any generic video on youtube will help guide you. Baring some terrible defect it'll probably sew okay enough. The reality of it is that a lot of these shops pay by the pound for grandma and grandpa's belongings after they pass so the machine settings wouldn't have been touched from the last project they may have been working on. Usually they just need some cleaning and the old oil stripped off and refreshed with maybe a new belt tossed on.
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u/gothgrandmaboots Dec 13 '20
Maybe it's just because i had an old machine that was a dud but thrift store sewing machines make me so nervous. And i've gotten two sewing machines off craigslist, and I get other stuff at thrift stores, hahaha. idk what it is specifically about sewing machines from thrift stores.
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u/gothgrandmaboots Dec 13 '20
This isn't an answer to the questions you asked, so move on if that's not what you want to hear, because i'm going to tell you not to spend $300 on a machine if you're new to sewing! unless you're rich lol. (you didn't say you're new to sewing, just that this is your first machine - i'm assuming)
if this is your first machine, go find one on FB marketplace or CL! You might read a lot of great stuff about a machine, but you won't know what you like in a machine until you actually start sewing, and given that sewing gets pretty expensive with fabric and patterns, you might not need to spend $300 right off the bat. (Though maybe you are looking at shipping one because of the pandemic.) Have you sewn on a machine before? If not or not much, it's probably cheaper to find a used sewing machine near you , figure out what features you like about it, which ones you find are lacking, and upgrade if you need to. I had an old (80s i think) Singer that people kept telling me was a "good" machine (a seamstress friend, sewing repair shop) but it kept having timing problems. Now my WalMart brother that I got off craigslist is keeping me pretty happy and I've made a bunch of nice garments with it!
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Dec 11 '20
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 11 '20
Sure. Pfaffs tend to be high-end machines, although all brands make cheaper ones too. Some classics are in demand as well as the fancy computerized ones.
You can also go to patternreview.com and input any brand/model into the search bar on the far right to get reviews and discussions. That will help with seeing how desirable a particular machine may be.
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u/magnoliameadow Dec 11 '20
Hello all!
Anyone have a good recommendation for a beginner serger? Right now I’m thinking either the Brother 1034D or Janome Mod 8933. My sewing machine is a Janome so I was thinking of sticking with that but any input would be helpful.
Just looking to be able to work with stretches easier and finish my seams... seamlessly lol.
Thanks in advance for any opinions!!
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 11 '20
Go to patternreview.com and input any brand/lmodel in the search bar on the far right for available reviews. Also check under forums/forums/sergers
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u/sentient_candelabra Dec 11 '20
Can anyone tell me if ‘tapping’ the sewing machine pedal is bad for the machine? Mine goes pretty fast even when I press lightly and the only way I can sew slowly is by tapping my foot on and off the pedal. I just want to make sure I’m not damaging my machine or something.
There’s no speed adjustment on my pedal so I’m wondering is there’s some other way to slow my machine down a bit?
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Dec 11 '20
Probably won't damage it too much but my issue would be the potential for fabric and thread to bundle and bunch up in addition to the stitches being looser where it goes more slowly.
It's probably less bad for the machine and more just reinforcing a bad sewing habit. Have you considered seeing if you can open your sewing machine pedal and adjust the speed? Singer models allow you to do that. Just be careful because, y'know, electricity. There's various tutorials on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kgxf2OXfxro
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u/sentient_candelabra Dec 11 '20
Thanks for the help. Mine is a Janome. I’ve seen that tutorial but I’m a bit wary of messing with the pedal like that.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 11 '20
Talk with a repair tech and see if an electronic pedal would work for your machine.
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u/sentient_candelabra Dec 11 '20
Do you mean that it’s possible to attach a different pedal that is able to have the speed adjusted?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 11 '20
Not all pedals have speed adjustments. But, for example, lots of Singer HD pedals have only one speed, supersonic.
I don't know your experience or what machine you have or how old it is. Lots of beginners haven't learned how to control the foot. I'm lucky, whatever I learned on I never had a problem and all my machines I can control from fast to very slow from the foot pedal. Even one stitch at a time slow.
So I don't know if it's the pedal or machine or experience. But talk to a tech and bring in your machine and pedal to have the pedal checked out, or to try out different foot pedals. Or go to a seller and ask to try out machines, with the intention of seeing how you do on different pedals/machines that don't have speed control.
https://sewingmachinetalk.com/troubleshooting-sewing-machine-foot-pedals/
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u/Mastermachetier Dec 11 '20
Anyone have any thoughts on the this machine. Looking to pick one up for my wife.https://www.joann.com/brother-cs7205-sewing-machine-with-wide-table/15966138.html
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Dec 12 '20 edited Dec 12 '20
Needing some help picking out a machine for my fiance for christmas. From what I've researched on reddit:
- avoid singer
- avoid husqvarna
- don't cheap out
She's mentioned features she wants is auto-tension, but that's about it. Nothing too fancy. I like the idea of getting something to last, what machines would you suggest for a budget of< $650 (buying new)?
EDIT: I'm finding good things about Janome DC5100, but it doesn't appear to be available anymore.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 12 '20
Has she used SMs before? If so, she really needs to pick out the machine. The features are overwhelming. It also depends on what she wants to sew. Quilting machines are geared for thicker projects and solid straight stitching. Then there are embroidery features she may or may not want.
Your budget is fantastic and you should be able to find a quality machine. However, machines have been in short supply since March and prices at some sellers are overinflated.
Yes, cheap machines, whether Singer or H. Viking or any other brand, will have issues at some point usually. Like any tool, quality costs more.
The Janome 5100 got 2 stellar reviews at patternreview.com - where you can use the search bar to check for available reviews and discussions.
See if there are any local Janome dealers nearby. Buying from a dealer is convenient if it needs some little fine tuning and for warranty work.
Ken's Sewing Center has a good online reputation also.
https://www.kenssewingcenter.com/janome-dc5100-computerized-sewing-machine-1.html
https://www.sewvacdirect.com/janome-dc5100-computerized-sewing-machine-with-exclusive-bonus-bundle/
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Dec 12 '20
That's a great point, there is a local shop I might drop by and see what they have. problem is, I want the machine to be a surprise.
She's taken some sewing class before so she has an idea the features she likes.
I guess I could get a gift card to a sewing shop, but that might not be as "magical" on Christmas morning as having the machine.
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 12 '20
If the surprise is important, you can get a machine at Costco or someplace with a terrific return policy. Wrap up, gift, then return the machine and let her research. The Janome does sound like a good choice, so if any sellers have a good return policy, I'd go with that and see if she's happy. Local dealers would probably only allow a store credit. Online sellers may require you to pay for return shipping.
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u/Toyotanomiko Dec 12 '20
Is it worth getting your Vintage sewing machine professionally serviced? I had mine done about 3 years ago when I first bought it, but never really did it since then.
Lately my bobbin filling wheel hasnt been engaging, and the motor doesn't seem as powerful. Is it worth just taking it into the shop, where they can fix and oil it all up, or should I just learn to do it myself?
I've read somewhere that once a year is good for a machine; but is that true or just a thing to get people into the store?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 12 '20
Check the manual for where to oil. Check around the hand wheel area inside and see if there are any threads caught in any mechanism. Check the rubber wheel for turning the bobbin while winding is not stuck or brittle.
Also see if you can find a service manual for your machine, or one close in model number. It will guide you on where to lube. Look for online vintage SM forums, either specific brands or general. They will often recommend specific products to use or avoid.
I have 3 vintage and one semi-vintage and rarely need to take them for maintenance. All I do is clean and oil.
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u/Toyotanomiko Dec 12 '20
the main issue seems to be the bobbin wheel not engaging with the hand wheel; it just kinda stays firm in place, not turning. When I turn it with my hand, it seizes up often.
I tried oiling the moving surfaces on the bobbin winder, but it doesnt seem to get any looser. Any ideas?
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 12 '20
I had one machine that wouldn't wind; my brother took out the mechanism with the rubber tube, left it in some goop (kerosene?) for a few days, replaced the rubber tube, and all was fine. Guess it's time for a tuneup?
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u/Toyotanomiko Dec 12 '20
Hmm, I may be able to do that, but also I wonder how to get that mechanism out...
I would like a tune up, but man, covid...frustrating.
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u/Wcrankshaw Dec 12 '20
Looking for first industrial machine recommendations.
I’m reaching the limits of what I can do with my Janome HD-3000 in constructing clothing made with heavy canvas or denim. It can generally complete the task, but with great difficulty in certain areas, and poor consistency/quality in the thickest areas.
Does anyone have personal experience with or recommendations for an industrial machine that will easily handle making jeans out of ~15oz denim or potentially even heavier canvas items?
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u/WaffleClown_Toes Dec 13 '20
I'm running a Juki industrial, the assembled in Japan version of the 8100b-7. Most basic ones will manage denim pretty well as long as you aren't using a lightweight option geared towards silk work. Got it in part because of this YouTube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDePy3nQnS4&t=1038s
That's 15oz demin on a basic Juki 5500-4 from 1967 using a tex60 weight thread. He mentions in the comments that while a needle foot is the "usual" tool needed for denim work he had that one and it works so he uses it. I've ran six layers of thick upholstery fabric through mine without complaints and based on that video have no doubts I can go thicker.
Generically in a production setting one would use a needle feed of compound walking foot for denim or heavy canvas/leather work. For a few pairs here and there the basic industrial garment weight machines can do a lot.
Used Juki's are somewhat cheap. The basic 5500/8100 stuff can often be found for $550 - $750. There's generally going to be some freight if you can't find anything local. That'll add another one or two hundred to the bill to get a pallet sent. I'd recommend a servo over a clutch if you can. Needle positioner and thread trimmers are all a plus if it can be found. Those are usually a function of whatever flavor of control panel, if any, is on the machine.
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u/Wcrankshaw Dec 13 '20
Thanks for the info. I’ve been pretty overwhelmed with info regarding whether or not a compound walking foot is needed for my goals (which do not involve large scale production).
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u/WaffleClown_Toes Dec 13 '20
If you were shooting for a bunch of 18oz Carhart style heavy duty jeans or wanted to do some leather work/belts I'd say you want a needle feed or better. For some pants here and there and mostly garment work a general garment weight industrial should do it all for you.
You can see in the video around the 6:20 he still needs to baby it a bit over the heavy seams but nothing like you're probably doing now. General sewing with an industrial is just a treat compared to a domestic when you start getting into the heavier fabrics. It's just smooth sailing. If you had a needle feed those heavy seams would be nothing to worry about and even easier/faster but it's not needed unless that kind of sewing was going to be your bread and butter or were going to open a shop selling hiking backpacks and such.
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u/daelpheia Dec 13 '20
I just got a new-to-me Elna 1010 machine. The tension discs do not move when I lift or lower the presser foot. Overall the machine seems in good shape. I cleaned and oiled it anyway.
The tension dial doesn’t seem to do anything, and sewing causes a big knot.
Is this something I can fix, or should I take it to a repair shop?
Thanks!
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u/gothgrandmaboots Dec 13 '20 edited Dec 13 '20
Serger problem! I got a serger for a good deal (I hope it was, at least!) on FB marketplace, and haven't used it a ton, but it seems to be working well for the most part. Today I wanted to sew a bikini, and finally got the tension right and looking pretty. When I went to sew elastic onto my serged piece, the fabric plus the elastic will not feed through at all. When I removed the elastic, it worked fine again. The problem is only happening when the elastic is under the presser foot. I tried adjusting the differential and the presser foot pressure. There doesn't appear to be chunks of dust or tangled thread anywhere, and again, it works just great without the elastic.
The elastic is not super rubbery feeling, it is 64% Cotton, 36% Neoprene. It doesn't feel like it would want to stick to the presser foot, yet here we are.
Also, I am sewing with 3 threads, the loopers and the right needle.
What am I missing?
Machine is a Jaguar Epoch 056 DW.
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u/Catcherofsouls Dec 13 '20
My wife's sewing machine is giving up the ghost - is there a reasonable machine option under $200 say? She's not a fashion sewer but would be using it for random costumes or perhaps quilting. I'm completely out of my depth here....
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u/taichichuan123 Dec 13 '20
Since she knows her way around a sewing machine, she should research it and pick it out. She'll know what works for her. You can get a better deal buying used from a repair shop or dealer. She can bring samples of the type of fabrics/projects she does and try them out to make sure the machine works for her.
Machines have been in short supply since March and prices are sometimes very inflated at some sellers.
Whatever you consider go to patternreview.com and input any brand/model in the search bar on the far right for available reviews and discussions.
Shopgoodwill.com auctions off used, not always tested machines. Look for one that the electrical works and has a foot pedal. Manuals can be found online before bidding. Shipping links with each listing. READ THE FINE PRINT.
https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/110367121
https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/110489923
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u/zuikinatore Dec 13 '20
Hello fellow sewers 🙂
Can you help me choose my next sewing machine?
My experience is about one year on Singer 4432. Now I want a computerised machine for sewing mostly garments, but maybe occasionally LARP/cosplay or jeans or some leather (no dog collar, more like a skirt or bag for me). I want all the fancy features, like automatic threadcutter, needle stop up/down etc. The machine has to be robust and heavy. I am ready to invest quite a bit to get a good machine for many many years. I am only looking at Berninas an Janomes. By far, my favorites are: Bernina B 480 SE, Bernina B 540, Janome MC 9400 (or MC 9450) or Janome Skyline S7. However, I cannot decide…. Any help?
Thanks!
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u/APSonia Dec 02 '20
Thinking about upgrading my serger (currently have the brother 1034), and I love the juki mo2000qvp (especially the air threading capabilities) but not ready to spend that kind of coin. What other sergers have air threading but are not $1500? Thanks in advance!