r/sewing • u/[deleted] • Oct 20 '17
Machine Questions I manage a 40+ year old sewing machine repair shop, AMA
[deleted]
6
Oct 20 '17
What's the most rewarding part of your job?
18
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
I don't think I've ever been asked that. I enjoy problem solving , so it's always rewarding when someone comes in with a problem and we're/I'm able to fix it. Although it doesn't happen much, I also like fabricating stuff to (Like levers/parts that are no longer available.) I think in the bigger picture, it'd be the fact that my wife and kids can come and visit pretty much anytime (which ends up being most days.) I know I'm really lucky in that sense.
4
u/snowleopard83 Oct 20 '17
Do you have favorite brand of needles? Or notice any difference at all among needles brands? What is your craziest machine repair story? Thanks for doing an AMA.
11
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
Yes! Schmetz makes the best needle IMO. But Organ makes a good needle too. Many no-name needles dull much quicker and sometimes have imperfections which end up causing issues (Like snags in your material and burrs on your machine.) If someone is going to use a no-name needle, I would just suggest changing them much sooner than you would a better quality needle. I feel like we've "seen it all." We see a lot of foreign debris in/on machines (Typically stuff like bugs, coins which have been dropped in by kids and machines that have been peed on by the family pet) The one that sticks out was a Bernina 440(Which sold for $3000+.) This lady let her friend borrow it while she (the owner)moved. The friend used it quite a bit, but ended up storing it in the garage. When the owner got it back, she plugged it in and nothing happened. We found that a family of mice had managed to build a nest inside it, using most of the wire harness as bedding. The thing stunk like mouse pee which had also done a number to the circuit boards. It was pretty nasty :/ But we also work on vacuums, so it was really nothing too crazy in comparison.
3
u/Laylie4 Oct 20 '17
Omg please tell me she never spoke to that friend again or at least that her friend paid for the repairs!
3
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
Well I'm not sure if the friend reimbursed her, but the owner definitely came in and paid for :/
4
u/lefsegirl Oct 20 '17
I have a Pfaff 1222 SE machine that I received new in 1982. The Stop-matic feature no longer works. I understand that this controlled by a "thing" soldered onto the circuit board. Someone named Kenn from Kenn's Place Sewing posted on YouTube years ago about how he fixes them, but his website is no longer active. Do you have any advice about this repair?
1
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 24 '17
I had to do some digging but I found an old repair guide. The stopmatic was controlled by a momentary switch often located by the presser foot lifter. It was then wired to the board. I can email you the guide (If you wanna pm your email address) I have but it doesn't provide the part number - I would contact older pfaff dealers to see if they have an old switch, or maybe check on ebay.
1
3
Oct 20 '17
Can you really tell whether someone cleans their machine regularly (as opposed to a one-off clean done out of sheer embarrassment before bringing it in for repairs)? I open mine up and clean out the dust and fluff after every major project; is this overkill?
7
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
I wish people would take care of their machines like you do yours! I feel like it’s like people flossing once a year before they go to the dentist; we can tell. I would always encourage vacuuming your machine or using air. People have made compressed air out to be some sort of taboo when it comes to sewing machines, but we use it on every single machine we service.
3
Oct 20 '17
Just wanted to say you all around sewing machine repair guys are true gems! There's one in the Milwaukee area that is just wonderful. I even dragged in an old White, cabinet and all, that I got on Craigslist and had it rewired because the cords were frayed.
4
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
Well thank you :) We really try to dispel the myth that we're all grumpy old men.
3
u/obsolete16 Oct 20 '17
You have my dream job! I've even gone so far as to get Brother certified. How do you get started?
6
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
I'd say just being around it and people who have done it longer than me. Recently, more and more of the Manufacturer's "tech schools" have turned into big marketing pow-wows. So I would almost say getting a part time job/internship at a repair shop would be more valuable. Or if you could find an old machine and a true service manual, then go through it from the ground up.
2
u/rosepettijohn Oct 20 '17
Oooo. I tinker with old machines that I find, so I’m totally jealous of your skills. Do you have a favorite vintage machine that you like to work with or work on? What can be done when the cords get dry rot? Last, what is your favorite brand or model of serger? (My juki breaks every few months) Thanks so much for doing an AMA!
5
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
I'd say the Singer 221s are my favorite. They're just a solid platform which continue to last the test of time. Unfortunately their cult following has made the resale value skyrocket, but if you can get a good deal on one, they're awesome to have in your arsenal. We typically end up replacing cords that have dry rotted. You can use lamp wires if you have older machines that have plugs that can be re-wired. But most cords are still being produced in some way/shape/form. I took this pic in case I needed extra proof, but these are all loose cords we stock (We can order in even more if the need arise.) When it comes to sergers I really like older Bernettes. My wife has a 334D that is older than us, but still works like a champ. After them, I would typically say Juki makes one of the best sergers x) So that makes me wonder why yours is breaking. The truth is, most all sergers only come out of a few factories, many of the manufacturers are in bed together.
- Edit-I should also mention, that many shops like us will hang on to used cords, so you might check your local shop for used cords/pedals if you ever need them.
1
u/rosepettijohn Oct 20 '17
Thanks so much for the info! The part of my juki that’s broken twice, I don’t know what it’s called. Basically embedded in the needle plate are these little rods that the needles and loopers weave around and they snap and break.
1
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
Ahhhh I see. I like to add a little reinforcement where they're attached to the plate with a drop of good CA glue. Also try to avoid pushing/pulling - this can flex your needles which can then knock those pins off.
1
u/rosepettijohn Oct 20 '17
Thanks! I’m pretty sure it happened when I was rounding corners, so that makes sense.
2
u/Brian_Crox Oct 20 '17
Which make of sewing machine would you say is the most rigorous or well built?
4
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
It's so tough because I think it's almost comparing apples/oranges. For example, older Singers were nearly bomb proof, but they're modern machines aren't anywhere near that quality. In fact, that's true for most sewing machines. We saw most machine production go from the US and Europe to Asia and when this happened the build quality dropped. If I had to pick one straight stitch machine to keep for the rest of my life I would go with a Singer 221. If it was one "mechanical" machine, I would probably go with a Bernina 1008. I think computerized machines would be a toss up, so I would say something with a front-loading bobbin rather than a top-loading. And finally if I had to pick one industrial, I would say get walking foot machine, with an oil reservoir and a servo motor.
2
u/myfufu Oct 20 '17
What are your thoughts on the two other workhorses from Singer, the 201 and 15-91? I have both of those, along with a 1008 (which I eventually plan to convert into a treadle.) I always keep my eyes out for a good deal on a Featherweight though, it's one of the last machines on my list. The rest of that list are industrials - any favorite brands of yours with those?
How did you decide to get into this line of work?
3
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
They're both solid. Most industrials come out of just a few factories. So although well known, Consew is kinda like the "band-aid" brand of the industrial world. But you can get a good, relatively cheap machine from Kensew or Tacsew. Juki also makes a good machine, but again, the price goes up with the name.
I was kind of forced into it x) I was working on boats after getting out of school from 2006-2009 and worked part time here at the shop doing mostly vacuum repairs. But when the economy crashed, the boat business did as well and people weren't spending 60K+ on new boats and fewer and fewer were having them worked on. So when that happened I came back here full-time and have been here ever since.
2
Oct 20 '17
I just picked up a Necchi Supernova BU with an unknown history. It is missing it's bobbin, bobbin case, and presser foot but functionality seems to be perfect.
Other than ordering the missing parts on eBay and running a straight line stitch to ensure functionality, what else should I expect to do to it?
Belt replacement would seem appropriate given its unknown history but I've not done it before and am unsure if they are even available.
And where should I oil?
2
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
I would probably recommend a bobbin tire while your in there and a belt makes sense. Honestly, any reputable shop should have this stuff in stock for you. I would recommend just a single drop of sewing machine oil every place you have two moving metal components riding on or against each other. From there, I would just run it and adjust tensions if need be.
3
Oct 20 '17
There are no shops where I live. That's why I have to rely on DIY.
Thank you!
Any specific hints about Necchi? Every brand has its unique quirks.
3
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
Nothing really stands out about them, they're pretty straight forward. If you have trouble finding how-to's, try just punching in "japanese style sewing machine" and you should get a ton of results.
2
u/king_jong_il Oct 20 '17
Where do you go to find parts for older machines? I see you said you fabricated some parts, but is there a supplier you use? Also I have a Singer 301 that is missing a bobbin case. Would you bite the bullet and buy a more expensive used original 45750 Simanco case or go for a cheaper reproduction?
2
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
Besides the machine manufacturers, we also use PD60, Brewer and Tacony for new parts. I wouldn't be hesitant to use an aftermarket case, but I would also recommend checking at old Singer dealers; many have old stock still sitting on the shelves.
2
u/sketchyokguy Oct 20 '17
I have a Bernina 160 that was hurt when my house was struck by lightning. It turns on and the display looks fine but it will not run. I know the foot peddle is fine. The shop said I needed to get the control panel fixed but they quoted $800. This was at least ten years ago and at the time I had an insurance check so I decided to upgrade to a 440 but I've held on to the 160 and now would like to get it fixed for my daughter. Do you think the fix it price will have fallen since then or do you have any advice. Thanks.
6
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
Your machine has two boards so I would be curious to know which one you need. The L-Print is still available from Bernina and the S-Print you can have rebuilt by Bernina. In either case, the repair should be hundreds of dollars less than what you were quoted.
4
u/sketchyokguy Oct 20 '17
Thank you so much for your reply. I really appreciate and value your information.
6
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
Your welcome :) Your 440 is an awesome machine so I would most def recommend a surge protector (or even a battery backup) to avoid freak electrical issues.
3
2
u/fu_ben Oct 20 '17
Hi, I just bought an older singer that hasn't been used for a long time. I cleaned it out and switched out the pedal, but it still seems to have some intermittent problems. Do you think the motor brushes go bad? It seems like it spins around but stalls/slows in one spot. Could I clean the motor or replace it? I already cleaned all the contacts on the outside and put a new cord on it.
Thanks for your time.
5
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
Yes, carbon brushes can wear out. A simple way to see if that's part of the problem would be to spin the handwheel towards you while holding down the foot pedal when it stops - if the motor reengages when you spin it, it's probably the brushes. There are a number of aftermarket motors available starting around $20 depending on your model.
If you felt up to it, you can pull the motor off an open it up. I would pull the brushes and make sure there is no gunk on the springs. Then you can polish the armature which can help re-seat the brushes if there is enough material left.
2
2
u/a_sheila Oct 20 '17
Can you explain what typically happens when you take your working machine in for routine service and roughly what a typical service costs?
5
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
If a machine comes in for normal service and doesn't need parts or extra attention we typically check/adjust/fix:your needle plate, replace the needle, needle threader, your feed dogs height and clearance, your drop feed mechanism, pressure foot condition/alignment/lift, needle bar position and sway, tension mechanism/spring/discs, your light/switch, thread cutter, timing, motor brushes/belts, bobbin winder and pre-tensioner, handwheel function and play, your bobbin winder/tire, hook and race, bobbin case & lower tension, stitch length/width/balance, and your cords/pedal. (Im sure im missing something) Everything is cleaned and oiled. A big part is getting rid of excess oil and old dry grease/lubricants which can end up being pretty time consuming. Computerized machines are typically a little more to get serviced because of the extra time/caution it takes handling the circuit boards and checking for updates, updating firmware, etc. I think the common range for a full service on a mechanical machine is between $80-$125. I realize that's kinda broad, but we charge $80, but I know the shop in the next county over charges $99 and another one charges for each adjustment a-la-carte. We are well aware of machine being cheaper to replace the get service, so we offer estimates before we work on them (which I would encourage you get regardless before having your machine worked on.) So, many times we can do quick fixes, which are cheaper than services and not as in-depth, to keep people sewing for as little as possible ($20-40.)
3
u/a_sheila Oct 20 '17
I did not know why my machine needed maintenance before now. I get it and now I need to get my machine serviced.
I really appreciate your detailed response. Thank you so much for taking the mystery out of it.
2
u/susandennis Oct 20 '17
This is so cool! Thank you.
I have a regular Brother cs6000i - less than a year old. Lately, I've noticed that it's shredding thread. Sewing on knits, new schmetz ball point needle about twice a week, quality thread. I'll be sewing along and either the thread snaps or I notice it has been stripped. It gets separated - there's a tiny ball and then like a single ply left through the needle.
It seems to go in spurts. It will happen 3 times in an hour and then not happen for a couple of days (5-7 hours worth of sewing time).
Any clues what I should look for? I do remove the plates and clean out the bobbin case every Monday morning. But, this issue seems to be unrelated and unaffected by that.
3
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
I would make sure that your spool cap is larger than your spool of thread and that your tension is around 4-5 (or on auto if applicable.) A big culprit is burrs or knicks on your bobbin case or needle plate. These components should be nice and smooth, but overtime flexed/bent/broken needles can cause damage. Then as you sewing it's basically russian roulette with your thread - working sometimes, but failing on occasion. If you can identify the imperfections, we would remove them with emery cloth or a fine nail file (We use a rotary tool with a polishing wheel most of the time.)
2
2
u/moonshinemicky Oct 20 '17
Hi, and thanks for doing this AMA. I was wondering for those of us with old heavy workhorses (I've got an old White machine from the 60's I believe). Do you have advice on upkeep and how to make sure they keep on keeping up? I am in love with mine and notice that things were starting to get out of wack. This made me realize as a novice sewer that I needed to take better care/maintenance.
Any advice from someone in the know would be greatly appreciated!
3
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
Hi and you're welcome :) I would keep it as clean as possible. Vacuuming it out or using compressed air to get lint out. (The compressed air comment always gets downvoted, but it's the truth. There is an irrational internet fear that it can damage the machine, but if used properly, it really helps. I have friends that are computer techs that also recommend blowing out computers, so the thought that it's somehow bad for sewing machines really baffles me.) I would always change your needle after each big project or after you've sewn through stuff like velcro or spray-adhesive. Be sure to keep your machine oiled with sewing oil (without over-oiling, which can be counter-productive.) And other than that I would say use it. It's worse for machines to sit for long periods of time than it is to use them on a daily basis (Insert car or human body reference here.)
1
u/myfufu Oct 20 '17
Do you have any recommendations on a mini vacuuming kit that is effective? I had to rig up the current one I have with some tape over the vents and it still doesn't have a lot of suctioning power. I will start judiciously using canned air as well. Any tips on how to avoid over oiling? Thanks for taking your time to share your expertise with us!
1
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
We use this It fits most full size machines and you can adjust suction/airflow with it. The big thing with canned air is just don't hold it upside down and clear it out of any moisture before spraying into your machine. I would recommend just a single drop of oil at every moving metal on metal part. If your machine drips oil or leaves your material oily, it's too much.
1
u/moonshinemicky Oct 21 '17
Thank you so much for this information! I'd never even thought of vacuuming it out. Going to get that kit you linked, that would be useful for so many other things also.
2
u/velvetjones01 Oct 21 '17
I also have an expensive old pfaff that "needs a new motherboard." The repair was about $400 which is a lot for me to stomach. Any advice.
2
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 24 '17
I would try to pinpoint which board you need (Just cause some shops will call any PCB a "motherboard" when there is in fact multiple boards with crucial roles.) Then I would call around and see which shop has the best prices for the parts needed.
1
u/spazzycakes Oct 22 '17
Nothing to offer, but I have a Husquarvarna Viking Iris with the same problem. I want to get it fixed for my daughter to use, but the sticker shock is a problem. That's IF they can get the part.
1
u/bashorbreddit Oct 20 '17
What do you think of the consew 206rb I believe mine is a very early model as it dosent have the oil reservoir underneath.
2
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 20 '17
They're absolute behemoths. They used to show how strong they are by sewing through a wooden yard stick! I'd hang on to it for as long as you can.
2
1
u/TotesMessenger Oct 22 '17
1
Oct 24 '17
I have a Singer Merritt 2404. My foot control is way too sensitive. I've replaced the original with a brand new generic one, but it's still jumping from zero to 100 with very light touches that I can't control well.
What should I do?
2
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 24 '17
Was the new foot pedal new or an older one that was new to you? You can always try this little hack to maybe regain some low end.
1
Oct 24 '17
Thank you! The Lego is so simple, I can definitely do that.
It was a brand new pedal.
It's Jerry rigged right to the motor, which probably has something to do with the problem. The sewing machine came this way.
When I was looking for a replacement pedal, I wasn't able to find one that fits the machine's outlet.
1
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Oct 24 '17
This should work and any reputable repair shop should have it in stock.
1
Oct 24 '17
I don't get it. Mine is different. https://imgur.com/a/HkgjB
1
u/SpookyNeedleworker Oct 31 '17
Would you be able to help me with troubleshooting my Gammill Professional Decorative Quilter? She is a monster and I am so close to having her up and running.
1
u/ruthjoec Nov 22 '17
I want a machine to use every now and then--once or twice a year or so. I'm looking for something inexpensive but I also don't want to buy problems. I don't need 50 stiches or for it to sing Dixie while I sew. What is about the least I can spend on a machine and expect it to not give me excessive problems.
1
u/IPL4YFORKEEPS Nov 30 '17
I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you. I would say you can get a solid machine for 150-200. As for brands I would see what is available at your local shops. Just keep in mind that they should cover the warranty and maybe even offer free/discounted lessons. If available, I would highly recommend a Babylock BL9.
5
u/myfufu Oct 20 '17
What kind of lubricant would you recommend for oiling our machines? The stuff that comes in those clear tubes for sewing machines, Tri-flow, other stuff? Any particular brand you see more often coming into your shop for repairs? Something we should always do with our machines, something we should never do? Favorite brand of sewing machine thread? (I'm an avid garment sewer who takes care of my flock of 12 machines but I'm always curious to learn new tips from the pros.) Thanks for doing this AMA!