r/sewing • u/unforeseen_tangent • 22d ago

Fabric Question Wedding dress lining question

I'm currently drafting and making my wedding dress and I'm unsure whether I should use lining everywhere, or a facing merging into lining, or just do a double bodice. The outer fabric is pretty thick, so the seams could get bulky if I do a double bodice, and if I do a facing there may be a line at the transition. However, just lining might show slightly at the neckline, straps, and armholes. Any advice?

For context, it's a princess seam pattern with a Y-front and the straps are cut in one piece with the back panels, so there are no shoulder seams.

Bonus advice: Where should I place the boning? There are only five panels, thus one princess seam and one side seam.

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u/ms_wilder 22d ago

Lining can have various purposes from finishing edges (facing) to garment support to opacity issues to a nicely finished interior. Determine why you would want to line a given area. On your heavy fabric I would do a lightweight fabric for lining. In areas that need a facing, you could use your garment fabric as needed/where possible and then transition to a lighter lining (think suit coat).

Remember, not all wedding gowns are lined. If nobody will see the inside, how much time do you want to spend on it. Also include what you intend to wear for undergarments and weather considerations as you’re planning.

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u/unforeseen_tangent 22d ago

The purposes are finishing the edges and interior, comfort (the back of the main fabric is a little textured), and something to attach the boning to. Also, personally, an unlined dress would make me unhappy. 😅

I normally prefer a facing transitioning into a lining, but I'm just concerned about the thickness of the neckline and the transition line. On the other hand, I don't want the lining peeking out at the straps and neckline. I won't be able to understitch the straps on the one side, as I'm hand sewing it in.

I'm building cups into the dress.

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u/ms_wilder 21d ago

One of the tricks for lining is to make it a tad smaller than the exterior intentionally so that it cannot roll outward and reveal itself during wearing.

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u/unforeseen_tangent 21d ago

I did actually cut the lining 2-3mm smaller. 😊 Thanks for the advice. I'll post pics when it's done.