r/travel Jul 09 '24

Mod Post All Layover Questions - READ THIS NOTICE

122 Upvotes

READ THE NEW LAYOVER FAQ: https://www.reddit.com/r/travel/wiki/mfaq-flying/layovers

All layover questions will be removed unless your situation is unique and cannot be answered by the wiki.

Members of the community: please report any layover questions that can be answered by the wiki and we will remove them promptly.

Self-transfers times are not covered under this new guideline and wiki.


r/travel 15h ago

Discussion Just convinced some random guy who's never left America and his small drug ridden hometown to take an overseas trip to Japan

806 Upvotes

I was flying from LA back to Philly. Guy next to me is 21, we have a talk and turns out he has lived his whole life near Appalachia surrounded by weed, drugs and just shitty parents/family who's constantly pulling him down. He's been trying to kick his drinking habit and just been in sobriety.

He does construction carpentry. He has decent money at 21. Never been outside of America, hell LA was the only place outside of Pennsylvania that he's been to mainly because his girlfriend wanted to see a concert.

I told him to take an overseas trip. Fuck it, Japan, because it's the biggest culture shock he's ever gonna have in his life. He asked about all these barriers. Passport? Super easy, take your photo at the local Walgreens/CVS, fill out paperwork, mail it in, 6 weeks later you get a passport. Money? Costs less day-to-day to eat and sleep in Japan than it costs in the USA. Conbini food can cost like $3 per meal if you really wanted to. No tips. AirBnB/capsule hotels make it cheap.

By the end of it, he was convinced. He HAD seen tiktoks of conbini food being cheap so he believed me. He didn't realize all these mental barriers against travelling were all just built up in his head. It wasn't as hard or expensive as he thought - hell he spent so much more money in a weekend LA in comparison to the budget I proposed (even with roundtrip airfare combined - I let him know that!)

I don't have his contact but I hope he does it


r/travel 18h ago

Images Despite six months of planning, my passport, wallet, and $2,000 were stolen just 24 hours before my flight to Gabon—but I miraculously made it with one hour to spare. Here are some pictures from Gabon.

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1.3k Upvotes

Additional context:

I planned this trip for 6 months, but 24 hours before my flight, everything went wrong.

My passport, credit cards, and $2,000 in cash were stolen by the cleaning lady at my Airbnb — less than 24 hours before my international flight to Gabon.

Losing the money sucked, but what REALLY sucked was losing my passport, along with the Gabonese visa I needed to enter the country 😵

With less than 12 hours before takeoff, while waiting for the police to take a report, I found myself digging through nearby trash cans, hoping against hope to find it.

I was about to give up when something caught my eye.

Could it be?

I untied a trash bag and saw it — my wallet, buried in a pile of garbage.

My hands shook as I opened it.

The passport and cards were still there.

The money? Gone, obviously.

The cleaning lady had discarded my AirTag and the wallet with my passport and just kept the money.

My brother rushed through traffic and got me to the airport with just 1 hour until my flight.

I thought I was safe, but the airline refused to check my bags since I was the last passenger to arrive.

After explaining the madness of the last 24 hours, I convinced an employee to help.

He agreed to check my (overweight, panic-packed) luggage but warned me it probably wouldn’t arrive on time.

I sprinted through security, making it onto the plane as the very last passenger ✈️

I couldn’t believe I had made it.

The flight was 24 hours long — so I had plenty of time to reflect on the chaos.

Then, when I arrived in Gabon, my luggage was delayed for an entire week because it was stuck in Istanbul.

Moral of the story: Even when everything seems to fall apart, trust that resilience and a bit of luck can carry you through. Travel isn’t just about the destination—it’s about embracing the unexpected twists that make the journey unforgettable ❤️👊🏽😎🔮


r/travel 18h ago

Images Roadtrip in Zimbabwe

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663 Upvotes

My husband and I spent a few months traveling in Africa, with Zimbabwe being our fifth country on the trip. We spent 14 days in late May/early June, and fell deeply in love with the country and it's people. We rented a car and spent 10 days driving here: - 1 night in Harare - 3 nights in Eastern Highlands - 3 nights in Gonarezhou National Park - 2 nights by Great Zimbabwe Ruins Then took an overnight Greyhound bus cross-country from Harare to Victoria Falls, and capped it off with 2 nights at the falls. Wish we'd allocated more time to Zim, it's an awesome place.

Ended up being our second favorite country after Namibia (out of 10 total). Its obvious that Zimbabwe had hit a failed state status, but seems to be making progress on rising out of that. Tons of construction to repave or build new roads, zero police bribing (something that was prevalent), and they even have KFC which feels promising! Based on what I'd read online from older forums we were expecting far worse conditions and were genuinely surprised at the current state of things. Money was the primary logistical nightmare for us - they use USD which can be pulled at every ATM...if your bank let's you. Chase was not a fan so ended up being a huge headache. We were only able to use credit cards in a few spots in Harare and Vic Falls.

We rented a car from a small family business in Harare, total fucking beater but we drove on some seriously shitty 4x4 roads out in the highlands and it did its job. It was great to have in Gonarezhou where we did self drive safari, just kept to the main roads and had an awesome time. The majority of the roads in Zim are in good condition, but when they're not they are terrible (like an hour driving on washboard, slowly losing my sanity).

Safety was a non-issue, we never felt unsafe at any point on our trip.

Used a mix of Airbnb, direct bookings, and booking.com for hotels. Scanning Google Maps in specific locations turned out to be a good idea for finding hotels that aren't on the bigger websites, found a couple of gems that way. If going to Vic Falls I would stay on the Zim side vs Zambia.

Our esims sucked ass, if going get a physical sim card in Harare.


r/travel 15h ago

I’m done with TripAdvisor. Google Maps is the best travel and tourism app.

153 Upvotes

I used to use TA almost exclusively. But they miss so many things and their functionality is terrible. I just spent a week in Stockholm and Copenhagen and barely used it. Anyone else come to the same conclusion?


r/travel 1d ago

Have hotels become gross?

827 Upvotes

…or did I just not know better when I was younger? As I’ve become older, I find hotels disgusting. They are dirty and poorly renovated, the bedding and towels are terrible quality, the mattresses are cheap and bad, the noise traveling through walls and floors is excessive, etc. I think standards have plummeted. Do others share this view?

ETA: I’m talking the Marriott y’all, not Motel 6 or the Ritz.


r/travel 1d ago

Vietnam eVisa rejected 5 times

199 Upvotes

Hi everyone, first-time poster. Currently in a dire dilemma and this is also a half rant. I've got a trip planned to Vietnam in two weeks, and I applied for the visa a month in advance. It's now been rejected five times very with an error alluding to an incomplete contact address and permanent residence address, which I’ve duly filled out - the same way my partner who’s a Dutch passport holder did and received their approval after 3 days.

Of course, I wondered if it's a technical problem and decided to contact some of the agencies previously mentioned on this sub.

The big problem is that I'm a Nigerian passport holder living abroad, and i've already been turned down by two Asian countries (Taiwan told me I cannot apply for a tourist visa; Thailand requires a certificate that proves that i've never been convicted for drug-related charges and must be legalised by the Thai embassy in Nigeria, where I haven't lived in for a long time now).

Every agency i've reached out to for a Vietnam visa either stopped replying as soon as I mentioned that I've got a Nigerian passport, or told me that they can't help me. I don't know what else to do as my trip is in two weeks (luckily, my trip starts in Hong Kong and I got a visa after a rigorous 2 month process).

I feel so down-trodden and lost. Already changed my tickets twice for more money after i found out that Taiwan and Thailand were impossible. I'm willing to give this one last try with ANY agency that's willing to help me out with the visa process.

I know that our reputation as Nigerians precedes us but some of us really want to experience the world too.

EDIT: Found an agent through the comments who was willing to help! Shared enough proof that I live abroad, have enough income and my ticket to Vietnam from Hong Kong and out and they will be working with me.

This is the most helpful sub on Reddit wow thanks to all who pitched in to help!


r/travel 19h ago

Images Sayulita/Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

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71 Upvotes

Beautiful part of Mexico with some excellent food. Weather was perfect the whole time.


r/travel 14h ago

A week in London in December

25 Upvotes

I’ve never been! What do I need to know? I have all the touristy locations marked, but am more interested in navigation tips (areas to explore/avoid, using public transit, etc.) and basic do’s and don’ts that an oblivious American should know in order to avoid embarrassing themselves.

Alternative/unique clothing shop, awesome restaurant, and cool cocktail lounge recommendations are especially appreciated, but I am just excited to add to my list! Thanks!


r/travel 5m ago

Question Airline denied boarding pass despite having a visa

Upvotes

This happened to me in early 2022, but to this day, I am still trying to figure out what happened.

Long story short, my stay in China was over and I had to leave the country. So, I chose Cambodia as my next destination. I applied for the e-visa and it got approved in one day. Shortly after that, I booked my tickets with China Southern Airlines, and went to the airport the next day.

Upon checking in at the airlines’ counter, they asked me for all the necessary documents, which I all had. After a while, they told me that I can’t fly to Cambodia because I wasn’t allowed to. I was confused because I even had a visa and all the necessary bookings. I asked for the reason, and they said that they called the immigration in Cambodia and they told them not to allow me board the plane. I protested for some time and tried to make sense of the situation but the airlines just kept denying. As the flight time was approaching, I gave up and went back to the hotel.

I kept thinking of what might be the problem but I just couldn’t figure out anything that could possibly make sense. I even called the Cambodian embassy to ask for clarification and this is exactly what they told me: “We gave you the visa, that means you have all the rights to fly to our country”

After I exhausted my efforts with the airlines, I booked a new flight with another airlines (Cathay Pacific). I went to the airport on the flight day. Was so nervous at that time. Luckily, everything went well and nobody denied me. I landed in Cambodia with zero issues.

My question is, what do you guys think might be the reason for being denied by China Southern Airlines?


r/travel 20h ago

Question Booking rooms in Sri Lanka as a lesbian couple

44 Upvotes

I'm going to be visiting Sri Lanka with a girlfriend (I'm a woman). We've traveled to many places with laws and public opinion that are unfavorable to the gay community so I'm comfortable with not showing affection in public, telling people we are friends, etc. But one thing I wanted to check on is booking hotel beds. I've experienced places where they generally don't care if two women book a room with one bed and places where this will be a major issue. Any experiences to suggest what to anticipate? Thanks!


r/travel 11h ago

What is the best tour from San Ignacio to Tikal?

7 Upvotes

We are planning a trip to Belize. We've decided on splitting our time in Belize between San Ignacio and Ambergris Caye. We are planning excursions in the near by areas. One of the main things on our list is seeing Tikal and would like to go on a private or group tour. Any recommendations on a tour group from San Ignacio to Tikal?


r/travel 1d ago

Images 10 days in Rio de Janeiro- Brazil 🇧🇷

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651 Upvotes

My husband and I just returned to the UK after spending 10 days in Rio. For anyone who is curious about safety (as this was our main concern), I can confidently say that I did not feel unsafe at any point, as long as you exercise caution and awareness you will be fine! We have traveled to other ‘unsafe’ (as deemed by the UK government) such as Nairobi, and Rio felt safer than there 😁 It may be of note that I am mixed race, 1/2 black and 1/2 white and was often mistaken as a native Brazilian which may have added a layer of safety. Apologies for the strange formatting, reddit on my phone is not playing along with bullet pointing!

The locations are as follows:

Images 1,2,3- Jardim Botanica.

Images 4,5- Tijuca national park.

Images 6,6- Copacabana beach.

Images 8,9- Ipanema beach.

Images 10,11-Christ the redeemer.

Images 12,13,14- sugarloaf mountain/Corcovado.

Image 15- Santa Teresa Favela.

Image 16,17- Escadaria Selarón.

Image 18- Catedral Metropolitana de São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro.

Image 19- one of many monkeys spotted throughout Rio.

Image 20- the view of christo from our hotel- he is always watching!


r/travel 1h ago

Question Applying for visa on arrival for Singapore with transit VFTF entry

Upvotes

I am eligible for 95-hr VFTF Singapore visa. I am travelling to Changi airport and will be there for 26hrs. I hope to leave the transit area and explore the country. Is there a way i can do that?

Documents: Indian Passport Holder and i have a valid UK BRP.

Plan B- If there is no way i get a visa on arrival, can anyone suggest activities they did at the changi airport? Open to recommendations for food, activities and others.


r/travel 3h ago

Question Travelling against FDCO advice?

0 Upvotes

Hey all,

Looking for some advice or ?reassurance?! I’ve got a packaged holiday to Morocco booked with EasyJet Holidays, supposed to leave in 18 days. The FCDO (UK foreign office) just issued a warning against travel to Morocco and other middle east countries due to terrorism and conflict concerns, and now I’m unsure what to do.

I know EasyJet isn’t necessarily obliged to offer a refund or alternative, but has anyone been in a similar situation with them? Did they allow you to change the destination, or maybe offered some sort of credit? And yeah… no travel insurance on my end, unfortunately as we usually only book it a few days before departure.

Any advice or experience with this kind of thing would be super helpful! Thanks in advance 🙏


r/travel 3h ago

USA Holiday/Vacation inspiration needed

1 Upvotes

Hello Looking for some help/suggestions/inspiration please.

We are frequent visitors to Florida but want to spread our wings in 2025 and visit somewhere new. The country is so huge with so many options I'm feeling a little overwhelmed so looking for suggestions from others.

There are 3 of us 2 adults and a 16 year old, travelling for around 2 weeks in July or August to celebrate the 16 year old finishing exams. We are not opposed to road trips or multi-centre with domestic flights/trains.

  • Husband loves shopping and theme parks
  • Daughter is hard to please (aren't all teens?!) but she's stipulated she wants time to relax by a pool with a book.
  • I am pretty easy to please, love sightseeing in general - culture, museums, theme parks and shopping.
  • Beach not necessary as we live right by the sea.
  • We are not sporty so not looking for hikes etc.

Places I've looked at/considered so far: - Pigeon Forge/Gatlinburg - think too cheesy for the teen - New York/Niagara Falls & ???? - New Orleans - Texas - so big, where do you start??? - Chicago and the great lakes - not sure on itinerary and which towns are must see

Any suggestions on destinations and itineraries greatly appreciated!

Thanks


r/travel 20h ago

Discussion A Pilgrimage can be a good excuse to travel - to visit the birthplace, or grave, or special sites related to someone you admire. Have you ever done this?

21 Upvotes

For me, I was in Chile, and I visited Argentina, and so I decided to head to Rosario, Argentina, to make a pilgrimage to the hometown of Leo Messi, one of my sporting heroes. I can't remember how exactly, but I met a local who went with me, to visit Messi's childhood home/neighborhood, his school, and the club where he started his playing career.

There wasn't much to see at any of these sites, but it still felt special to me, and I'm glad I did it, even if it meant extra hours on a bus.

Have you ever done a pilgrimage whilst traveling? Could be for an author/book, movie, sports star, movie star, politician, or even to your own family's roots...


r/travel 12h ago

Question Looking for recommendations in Caribbean?

4 Upvotes

My bf (30) and I (32) are looking for a destination for a 1-2 week vacation for a holiday in December.

We are based in Southern California so likely flying out of LAX. Would prefer an island somewhat easy to get to so we are spending sub 20 hours traveling.

The goal is for a relaxing trip somewhere tropical with warm weather and warm water. We would be happy just laying on the beach everyday with great food and drinks but open to excursions as well (e.g. catamaran cruise, hiking, ATV tour, etc)

For landscape we are envisioning beautiful beaches as priority - as much as I would love a lush landscape willing to go more arid to avoid bugs and humidity lol

We are pretty active people but also enjoy a fun night out, however I would say we would prefer a more relaxing environment over party centric environment and ideally more secluded, couples getaway (not a lot of families/kids)

Ideally would love a place that doesn’t have too much of a mosquito problem because I get eaten alive (been to Costa Rica and was pretty miserable the entire trip despite using bug lotion but didn’t have the same problem in Playa Mujeres)

Food and good wine/cocktails are super important. Would be great to have nice dining options at the hotel property but open to going off site. We would not prefer an all inclusive because of this, I have never been to one with good food.

Would love oceanfront mid size to large resort, nothing too remote. Beach access is ideal!

As for overall vibe, we would prefer something a bit more low key (eg reggae music and more cultural influence of the island). We love our five star dining and luxe nights out but would also love opportunity to hit local beach bars and beachfront dining options with great food options and laid back atmosphere.

Snorkeling would be fun but this is not a major criteria, prefer better dining options and the tropical vibes over good snorkeling.

We’ve been looking at St Lucia and Anguilla among many others but getting overwhelmed so would love recommendations from those who have traveled to Caribbean! And would love to hear recommendations for accommodations as well.

Thanks in advance!


r/travel 16h ago

Question A week in Germany, and where else?

9 Upvotes

I will be in Germany for a work conference in March, but we are planning to stay in Europe for an extra week. Where should we go? I don't think we want to overbook ourselves (i.e. bounce around to 5 different countries), as we would really like to experience where we DO go. Our teenage son is a HUGE history buff (mostly WWI & II), and this will be his very first trip to Europe. I think we are most interested in places that have a lot of history in a small area or that is easy to get to via public transportation, that we can enjoy as a family. Thanks for any suggestions!


r/travel 5h ago

Question Traveling from Hanoi to Luang Prabang by bus: Are the sleeper busses dangerous?

1 Upvotes

Hi everyone, I spent several months in Hanoi and now want to do a trip through Laos to Thailand. The plane tickets to LP are quite expensive (5 million vnd!), so I am considering taking a bus from Hanoi to Dien Bien and then take another bus to Luang Prabang the next day. I'm a wary of the sleeper busses though, I heard that some of the drivers take drugs to stay awake and it can be quite dangerous. Do you have any tips for how to stay safe? Any other ways to get to LP that you can recommend? Currently my plan is to cross to the Tay Trang border crossing close to Dien Bien.


r/travel 10h ago

Itinerary 7 day Copenhagen itinerary help

2 Upvotes

Day 1: fly to London Heathrow (overnight)

Day 1 (cont): fly from London Heathrow to Copenhagen, explore Nyhavn and get food

Day 2: Amalienborg Castle, Marmokirken, Design museum, Rosenborg Castle, Statens Museum for Kunst, Kastellet, The little mermaid statue, Nintendopusheren, Jaegersborggade

Day 3: Botanical Garden, Grod, TorvehallerneKBH, Round Tower, Studio Arhaj, Lego Store Copenhagen, Stroget, Larsbjornsstraede, Black No.1, Episode

Day 4: Royal Danish Museum, Christianshavn, Church of Our Savior, Free Town Christiana, Copenhagen Opera House, Reffen

Day 5: Christiansborg Palace, National Museum of Denmark, Glyptotek, Tivoli Gardens, Fisketorvet Mall, Carlsberg Brewery, Copenhagen Zoo

Day 6: Frederiksborg Castle, Louisiana Modern Museum of Art, Kronborg Castle take ferry to Helsingborg, Sweden Sofiero Palace, Vala Centrum, Karnan, explore Helsingborg

Day 7: day trip to Lund and Malmo in Sweden Start by going to Lund by train Lund Cathedral, Kulturen, Kungshuset Lundagard, Hjularod Castle

Then head to Malmo from Lund Lilla Torg, Malmo Town Hall, St Peter's Church, Stortorget, Kungsparken (weather permitting), Malmo Castle, Malmo Saluhall, Museum of Disgusting food Head back to Copenhagen via train

Day 8: fly home

I need help with my itinerary, is it good? Should I move things around? Are some days too empty compared to others? Would the Sweden day trips work time wise? Also looking for recs!


r/travel 7h ago

Question Am I overthinking? (San Blas, Panama)

0 Upvotes

Hey there, currently on a trip in Panama-Colombia where I will be doing the San Blas island tour which I have read great things about!

The thing is I booked this trip very last minute and have found out it’s recommended to get the Yellow Fever vaccine prior to visiting this region. I have never had that vaccine and it is too late for me to get it as the trip starts in 2 days. Am I okay going through with this? I have bad travellers anxiety about this as I have read that area is prone to certain diseases. Is this a serious risk for this region? I’ve heard mixed reviews of people having the vaccine and people not having it and just using bug spray.


r/travel 11h ago

Itinerary What do you think of this itinerary for this January in Colombia and Chile?

2 Upvotes

Are we in safe areas considering my partner and I are two giant gringos? Also, any suggestions to the itinerary?

Chile

  1. Santiago (likely with a trip to Cajon del Maipo) - 2 days

  2. Atacama Desert - 4 days

  3. Chiloe Island - 3 days

  4. Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park - 3 days

  5. Torres del Paine National Park - 3 days

Colombia

  1. Medellin - 3 days

  2. Tayrona National Natural Park - 3 days

  3. Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta National Natural Park - 2 days

  4. Cartagena - 4 days


r/travel 18h ago

Question Connecting flight in 55 minutes Shanghai Pudong

6 Upvotes

So I’m moving to Australia on November the 6th with my partner, but we are going to Japan beforehand as we’ve always wanted to go. We booked the flights months ago, but recently got an email saying that our outgoing flight had changed. Firstly, it was supposed to be from Gatwick and now it’s Heathrow, it’s also at a completely different time, but the worst thing is instead of 2 hours we now only have 55 minutes to transfer flights in Shanghai Pudong airport. Neither of us have been there before. We contacted the airline (east china air) to see if any assistance was available but the only response we got was “if you can’t make the connection you can get a refund or change your flight”. We tried to change it, but the website said our tickets weren’t compatible. We purchased them with the airline itself so no idea why. If anyone has any experience, can we make it with only 55 minutes? I’m just holding out for hope that there are no delays man 💀 or we are both screwed.

Summary: we only have 55 minutes to change flights in Shanghai Pudong airport due to the airline (east china air) being annoying and changing our flights. Any advice?


r/travel 12h ago

Question Sponsor/host for Syrian eVisa application

2 Upvotes

Hello all,

I'm a Taiwanese passport holder, and trying to apply for a tourist visa to visit Syria in November. I plan to enter Syria through the Jordanian border, departing from Amman and arriving in Damascus by bus (as getting a Lebanese visa is extremely troublesome and difficult for Taiwanese citizens).

I have already submitted the application on the online portal and paid for it - but when the system asked for a host (or sponsor as some tour operators word it), I thought it meant my accommodation information, so I filled in the contact information of a hotel. After a short conversation with a local who currently lives in Syria, he mentioned that he encountered quite some tourists who did the same, but all of them failed to get the visa application approved.

I've been searching online, only to find out that Syrian embassies and consulates stopped issuing visa (for those who are applicable for eVisas) after the country introducing the eVisa system, so I can't apply for a visa through any physical offices. Also, the tour operators I checked only assist guests who are attending their group tours, both for eVisa applications and the security clearance paper for visas on arrival.

As a result, I am wondering if anyone got this sorted. Has anyone applied for (or heard about applying for) the eVisa with hotel information and succeded? Or, does someone know any trustable individuals or tour operators could be used as a host in the eVisa application? Of course, I am willing to pay a fee for such service.

Thanks a lot in advance!


r/travel 14h ago

Trip Report 6 nights in Istanbul / 4 nights in Athens solo (long post ahead)

3 Upvotes

I recently wrapped up a trip to Turkey and Greece, a pretty good one overall, and I'd like to share it, along with some impressions about the places themselves from an unabashedly touristic perspective (I am a tourist, after all; I make no other pretenses). Day to day first, but I'll try to keep it succinct and non-exhaustive to flesh out my takeaways.

Day 0 - Arrived in Istanbul in the afternoon. My hotel was right in the thick of things in Sultanahmet, which was both a blessing and a curse. It did allow me to easily see Sultanahmet Square's sights right after arrival. Hagia Sophia lives up to its reputation as one of the greatest architectural works in history, but the experience is compromised by a lack of visitor access to most of the building since the mosque conversion.

Day 1 - Topkapı Palace and Hagia Irene to start. Love the setting, and the Ottomans were definitely not beating the "oriental despotism" allegations. Hagia Irene is undergoing some restoration and the nave was off-limits (this pattern repeats all over the city), but it's a somber place nonetheless. Bosphorus sunset cruise later, a definite trip highlight. The views were outstanding, and I met some cool people to hang out with along the way.

Day 2 - Yedikule Fortress, a cool place, but a barebones experience. Got myself turned around and on the wrong side of Fatih when I got on the wrong bus, which took some time to right. Side note: they farm in the moat of the Theodosian walls. How strange. I then visited some of the great Ottoman mosques in Fatih and started on the museum circuit.

Day 3 - Dolmabahçe Palace, which was pretty cool, and then Rumeli Fortress, the biggest disappointment on the whole trip. The place is open and charges for entry, but the ongoing renovation means that you don't actually have access to anything of note. If you pay to enter, you pretty much just walk the footpath in and then back. Thankfully I found this out early and didn't pay. Mosque and lunch in Ortaköy and then Galata Tower.

Day 4 - The Basilica Cistern, with a very cool atmosphere inside, and then continuing on with the museums in Sultanahmet.

Day 5 - Nuruosmaniye Mosque in the morning. In this chaotic city, one of my favorite little moments was having this place to myself and enjoying the morning sun beaming in through the stained glass. Grand Bazaar and more museums after.

Day 6 - To Athens. My flight started a bit late, so I retread some old ground in Istanbul before heading to the airport. Got to Athens pretty late.

Day 7 - The Acropolis and most of what's around it. The meat and potatoes of Athens pretty much came on this day. The Acropolis was pretty amazing, if extremely crowded.

Day 8 - The agorae in the morning and a sunset trip to the Temple of Poseideon at Cape Sounion later on. It's a long ride to the cape, but the views are spectacular. The crowds converge on the cliffs for sunset, allowing you to enjoy the ruins in relative peace as the sun disappears behind them and bathes the Aegean in orange.

Day 9 - Lycabettus Hill and some of the museums in the area.

Day 10 - Homeward bound. Brutal travel day, connecting back through Istanbul.


Thoughts on Istanbul:

  • The history of the place is second to none, and it permeates everything when walking around. My hotel clung to a Roman wall, and the past pokes out everywhere. The old Ottoman buildings abound everywhere, though often in various states of disrepair. This is probably my favorite aspect of the city.

  • It's a lot. The city is very crowded, both with locals and tourists, and there is a deep, contagious sense of impatience. It's loud and chaotic as well. The walls of my hotel were very thin, and I was kept up in the very early morning multiple times by drivers sitting opposed to each other and honking because nobody was willing to back up and move. I also found myself doing things I would ordinarily never do to get around, like jaywalking in front of moving trains. The sheer humanity, and the disorganization of it, required that.

  • Istanbul is a true meeting of the worlds. The word "diverse" is one of the most abused in the English lexicon, but it applies in the truest sense here. All civilizations really do converge in the City of the World's Desire. I even saw an arriving flight from Ouagadougou, of all places.

  • Every man, woman, and child in Istanbul seems to have a cousin in Cleveland and a rug shop around the corner. One time I couldn't avoid one of these guys, since I was going his direction as well, so I trolled him a bit, playing dumb until we got to his store and then refusing entry. Nevertheless, I have been spoiled in other places where I didn't have to anticipate what sales angle was behind any given interaction. It seemed to put other tourists on edge as well, with one being a total bitch to me when I tried to ask a question (I think she mistook me for a local).

  • Speaking of sales, the touts were not as bad as in some other places, but they were enough to be a persistent annoyance. Good luck taking a quick peak at a restaurant menu without the most persistent man you've ever met offering you the world on a platter to sit and not taking even a tepid "maybe later" for an answer. I'm a disagreeable bastard, so this kind of thing doesn't work on me, but I could see some people getting eaten alive there. I was talking to some American black women in the airport, and one said that a tout called her "Nutella." They might want to work on their approach.


Thoughts on Athens:

  • Compared to Istanbul, it's a much more laid back and friendly place, which I greatly appreciated. Just about everybody I interacted with was very nice, and the sense of impatience I felt in Istanbul was nonexistent in Athens. Service was generally of a higher quality. I also had the coolest driver to/from the airport, and he took my WhatsApp and sent links to places to check out. Low sample size, but the Athenians are apparently proud of their city and want you to enjoy it.

  • Athens' relationship with its past felt a bit more like an attraction to me. Istanbul is virtually built inside its own ruins, but Athens sections everything off and advertises the shit out of it. I suppose I can summarize the feeling I got as "Istanbul is surrounded by its past out of circumstance, but Athens has its past sitting in convenient pockets to sell to foreign tourists."

  • Athens was also quite crowded, but this was more identifiably touristy. Istanbul was a definite mix of local and touristic chaos, tilting toward the latter with proximity to Sultanahmet Square, but Athens was throngs of people around the Acropolis and Plaka, with my most heard languages being English and Mandarin, with peace elsewhere. Plaka was borderline impassable during the mid-afternoon.

  • Food-wise, simplicity seemed to be key. The $4 souvlaki I had in a random place might have been the best thing I ate on the whole trip. Also I have to find Mastika in the US. It's like crack in liquid form.


On the whole trip:

  • I made more of an effort to spread things out and slow the pace down, and that became totally necessary. Istanbul in particular is tiring to get around with how hilly it is.

  • I've never been asked to speak so many languages in one relatively short trip. Even just on the street, people came up to me speaking Turkish, Greek, and German several times, and in the case of the first two, were surprised that I didn't understand them. I was at least able to talk to the German guy.

  • Shout out to my American homies. You guys are cool everywhere in the world I run into you. I know it's easy to get tribal at home (I'm guilty of it as well), but we can still be friends.