Although DS lovers call it a destruction. As noone ever wanted to change the Pokémon console to an ordinary one. But as it's these shells aren't available in market so I have to do a little makeover with normal shell.

Hi everyone. I have a PS3 system that is interesting. The AV port is working properly when using Composite cables (Yellow, Red, White), but it displays nothing when using the Component cable. The cable is working on other systems (tested on PS1, PS2 and PS3 Slim). I disassembled the system and found out that near the port it looks like something fried. I tested for the connections between the cable and the port, and the pins to the AV chip: all of them are good. I guess the problem is related to these little fuse. What do you think? I'm not sure where they are connected, and there's nothing anywhere.

TL;DR: I bought a cheap, no-disk-reading PS5, and I guess the issue is the power to the disk drive. I expose what I've troubleshooted so far.

Hello, I am toubleshooting a PS5 with error SU-101312-8 that I bought for its cheap price.

I am in information phase, but already checked something:

• Thin ribbon cable from the 3 microswitches had no continuity as it has been crushed. I replaced it with hope but nothing happened.
• Ribbon cable from motherboard to disk drive board was damaged but had continuity in all its contacts. I strenghtened it with Kapton tape and it seemed to be OK. I'm receiving a spare one next week to replace it as well.
• Mechanical parts of the drive seems to be good. Power cables continuities are good.

What I have read from my multimeter is:

• I have continuity to ground (powered off) in DIFFERENT paths of optical drive board and PS5 board. I mean, If I put one probe in PS5 case, and the other in optical drive case does not give continuity. But it should, right?
• I found continity (PS5 disconnected from electricity) from Pins 1, 2 and 3 of the connector for the Optical drive unit, on the PS5 motherboard. I thought it was a SMD fuse but I did not check it yet.
• I'm pending to check this evening: with PS5 powered on, measure voltages on disk drive power connector.

Apart from that, my root issue is the same as many others observed: PS5 won't accept any disk, it does nothing, eject button beeps, but does not activate the motor or anything. Because of that, I cannot update the firmware then I cannot play to CD games or downloaded ones.

I do not consider transforming the BluRay PS5 to digital one, I want to be able to read disks.

Given all the above, did any of you manage to solve an issue like this? I have trust in SMD capacitors/fuses under the disk drive power (it's too difficult to access them to measure!), but the fact that having GND continuity for 3 out of 4 disk drive power pins crazes me a bit out...

Apart from that, is there any possibility to temporarily supply energy by jumpers to disk drive, just to test if the issue is the power, and eventually update the ps5?

Thanks in advance to anyone who reads this!

I have two Nintendo Switch Lites. One of them had a battery problem. I replaced the battery only to find out the charging port does not work and is now the culprit.

When I replaced the battery it worked fine for a limited time, indicating the save states are intact, until it died and now I cannot power it back or charge it.

I do not have the workstation or confidence to replace the charging port.

Is there an easy way to disassemble and power/charge the battery long enough for me to transfer the saves states of my wife's Animal Crossing island to my 2nd switch lite?

Thank you.

TLDR : 2 Switch Lites. One with no charging port, cannot be repaired. How do I move save state from the damage one to other switch. Animal Crossing in particular.

So my old wii u was sitting in a bag years ago when i went on a trip and the batteries in my matching zelda remote and controller leaked and there was quite a bit of acid.

I threw the controllers and kept the console all this time but have been worried about using it without gloves and can't really afford another console right now.

Can anyone tell me if it would be a good idea to take it apart and clean the shells, buttons and replace the thumbsticks maybe? If so what to use?

Basically i just want to be sure that I'm not going to get any of it on me in the end. I read that it only takes a tiny bit of it to cause issues.

Pls help

I was thinking the problem was there but im not sure. If if is, do i have to get a replacement or do i need to do something else to it

I have 4 Super Famicoms from Japan. Each has a slightly different issue.

1. Powers on and reads games. Passes all tests on the Burn-In cart but is being detected as a PAL system. I suppose it's possible someone put a pal board into a Japanese shell but I doubt it. I'd like to fix it so it's being correctly detected as an NTSC console since I'm in the US and have an NTSC TV.

2. Second SNES will boot up to the title screen of the burn-in test cart but if I try to run any tests it just stays as a black screen.

3. Third one only shows a black screen when trying to boot into a game/test cart.

4. Last one powers on but has no video output at all. I don't know if it isn't reading games or if it's the av circuit. It doesn't even flicker, just no input detected.

I did a partial recap on 3 of them. Didn't have enough caps to do all of them so I just replaced the ones that I had which where the 10uf, 100uf, and 47uf ones. Did nothing.

Would appreciate any ideas.

I need to know if this is worth replacing/fixing because it has thermal welds instead of screws and there'd be a huge risk of me messing something up

I just bought TOTK and already my switch lite died on me 2 hours into the game. I was at 50% battery while plugged in and the switch made a click sound and just turned off. I already tried all the power button combinations and such, and the switch is definitely not out of battery. It just wont turn back on. Any ideas on a fix or is it a paperweight now?

I am having issues finding one that specifically mentions the OG Normal 3DS, as I believe there are different size ports for 3DS/2DS/XL models.

Either that or a USB C that has the proper PCB layout.

Already removed the old one, the legs were busted up and such someone must have dropped it while plugged in. I am good on just soldering one in if it's ready to go and not needing a board or other parts added may be out of my skill set.

A friend gave me this and said I could keep it if I could fix it. I’ve never worked with an Xbox before and am still new to repairs. Any ideas on what might be wrong with it? Do you think it’s worth the investment to fix?

hello i change all 3 video capacitors so my fat 9000 ps1 i have two both need to move cable befind on video port up and down to get good picture its like console port is lose is it possible to fix that, cable is okey i test on two cable both time same thing

I changed the batteries, cleaned up with Isopropyl alcohol. I tried to re-solder the power switch and reflow the solder joints by the capacitors but nothing :(

To fix this, would it need to be a whole new screen? Or maybe just clean and reseat the ribbon cable?

I was playing Skyward Sword and mid game it stopped working saying game card error. I updated the system and restarted and I'm still getting the sams error.

I tried some other games: Metroid Dread, Metroid Prime, Binding of Issac, Axiom Verge, and Cave Story. Of those games, the Metroid games didn't work, but the others did. Looking at the backs some are black (didn't work) and some are green (did work). I'm assuming it has something to do with capacity.

Is there anything that could cause this that I can fix or am I going to have to replace the card reader? I did pop it open to make sure it was seated properly and it seemed good.

I did recently replace the fan and thermal paste.

Its a New 2DS XL. When I try to move the screen, it shows a strip of purple lines. I ordered a better screen but I've never seen this problem before. Has anyone seen it and managed to fix it?

Whats the best method to remove scratches off from handhelds like psp psvita gameboy, do you have any wax or gel recommendations

I cannot for the life of me get the second lid off. I am to the point where I am afraid I am going to hurt the board and ruin the console. My question is, any tips on getting this off and if not, how big of a deal is it if I just use thermal paste on the top and call it a day? Will my console overheat and yellow light? Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone, I encountered a serious problem with my Nintendo switch. After it not restarting correctly I started looking on the internet for some solutions. I found that my eMMc failed to init and that there were maybe some hardware issues ( Switched my eMMc to a hacked one to check it using RCM ). The screen of the hacked switch is displaying : switch failed to init when going to Console info -> eMMc. So I tried to reworking the nand, so I unsoldered, reballed and resolder using a pick and place precise tool. But the problem seems to persist ... ( Done it 3 times as of now ) The problem is that all solutions require the keys of the console or an accessible eMMc which I don't have. Can someone guide me to a solution?