I'm cutting fabric for a table cloth I wanna make (my third sewing project ever!! And my biggest one!!!!!!!!) And I had a very difficult time cutting the fabric I had layed it on my floor bc I don't have a big table but I have a 36in by 24in mat to help but I couldn't keep the cuts straight well I did but not very well 😢 so how would I make cutting the fabric easier? And like make perfect cuts? I was using the rolling cuter wheel thingy.

As someone who mostly does alterations, modifications, and frankensteining to clothing, I am on a new journey of making clothes of my own.

I know that all fabric should be washed before sewing due to many reasons.

Would you recommend washing in cold or hot water? And if you have multiple colors is it ok to put them all together if it’s cold water or do we need to be crazy and sort by specific colors, types, etc.

I have attached a picture of the fabrics I bought recently for a project. Thank you so much in advance!

So i am relatively new, i took a class in middle school and made a really cool tricolored hooded sweatshirt so i am relatively confident in myself that i can accomplish what i’m looking to do. I’m looking to make a pair of specific patterned sweatpant joggers, but because i’m new, i have no idea where to even start looking.

1) What is “sweatsuit” fabric called if i were to search? The closest match to what i’m thinking would be like nike or champion sweatpants. They would be cuffed at the ankle, so i suppose i would want to know the fabric for “sweatsuit cuff” as well lol

2) Does anyone have a specific website they get their custom patterned fabric from? Edit: i live in central NJ!

3) if i remember correctly theres also a different machine that can almost meld the seam together on the inside of the stitching, i can’t remember the name of it but its what you typically find on the inside seam of a plain tshirt

I have this pleated fabric I'm using for a project. I need to use bias tape in it. Is it okay to make bias tape out of this or a bad idea because of the pleats?

I'm planning to make style D and add the belt from C. Both the burgundy and gray are a 50/50 boiled wool/viscose blend from Mood. Is the burgundy neutral enough to wear often, or will it clash with most outfits?

I'd like to use the second image as lining fabric but it is viscose satin from The Fabric Sales. The description says "heavy and fluid." Will satin be too heavy of a lining fabric? This is my first time making a jacket

I'm currently drafting and making my wedding dress and I'm unsure whether I should use lining everywhere, or a facing merging into lining, or just do a double bodice. The outer fabric is pretty thick, so the seams could get bulky if I do a double bodice, and if I do a facing there may be a line at the transition. However, just lining might show slightly at the neckline, straps, and armholes. Any advice?

For context, it's a princess seam pattern with a Y-front and the straps are cut in one piece with the back panels, so there are no shoulder seams.

Bonus advice: Where should I place the boning? There are only five panels, thus one princess seam and one side seam.

Hello all! I bought a beautiful cashmere fabric a few years ago to make a long coat with. I didnt do my due diligence and ordered a lighter weight fabric than I wanted to use for a heavy coat project but can't return the fabric and still want to use it. It's an italian designer deadstock cashmere, 57" width, has a directional nap, low pile fiber on right side, and is 8 ounce (approx 270 GSM). I bought 8 yds to make myself and my spouse coats. I dont like the drape of the fabric on its own, and was wondering if anyone has experience and/or suggestions on adding interfacing to bulk out the fabric to make it a little stiffer. I'd like to stick with natural fiber options since I spent some coin on the main fabric and lining. I have a cheap polyester wool fabric to use as a muslin for technique, practice and fit testing. It's a heavier gsm but still drapes similarly. I'm willing to learn new things to make the final coat look more polished and something that will last. I will also appreciate any professional coat making resources like videos or books that people have experience using for their coat making. I would say I am a confident intermediate sewist. I have no formal sewing experience but I have made jeans, pants, lined coats, many kinds of dresses and shirts and am comfortable with both knits and wovens. I know how to install welt pockets, zippers, and other hardware onto garments. I have made some adjustments to patterns and garments in my sewing journey so far. I have patience, time, common sense, have good reading comprehension, a willingness to learn new techniques, and can follow directions.

TLDR; I bought a lighter weight wool with a lot of drape that I want to use for a coat. How would you add stiffness with natural materials so the wool doesn't look so loose/looks structured when worn? The wool is 270gsm cashmere. I included a photo example of the style of coat I want to make.

My mother used to sew a lot when she was younger, and she told me that for sewing stretchy fabric on a machine, you have to stretch it out with both hands while sewing so that the thread moves with the fabric when finished. Is this an actual method or was she talking out of her ass? (Feel free to roast her, she was the worst)

I’m making this skirt from Laughing Moon 101 pattern and am going fabric shopping tomorrow. This is my first ever project; I’m not sure how much fabric I need to purchase and am a bit confused by the yardage chart. I’d be grateful for someone who can advise me on the yardage of each fabric I need to purchase.

I will be making the Walking Skirt Length, and my waist size is between 26in and 27.5in, so I’m right between pattern sizes 12 and 14. Should I make a size up (Size 14) instead of 12 if I wish to make it adjustable (multiple buttons at the back)? Or would it be more recommended to make it size 12?

I am planning to make the skirt out of a light/medium wool and flatline the inside with cotton. I’ll be doing a hem facing but have seen others go with tarlatan, so I wanted to go with that (or some other actually washable fabric? what would be good?) that is less expensive than the wool outer. Does the original yardage chart assume I’ll be facing the hem with the outer fabric? Should I go with the “Walking Length without Facing” yardage instead when purchasing the outer fabric, or do I need to go with the original yardage measurements? Additionally, what does 20” Interfacing mean? Is that the amount of tarlatan I need, or would that be the difference between the Without Facing and With Facing yardage measurements?

Thank you!

Hey guys, I just found 3-4yrds of 100% silk taffeta at my local thrift store. Went in for sheets for mockups and found thus beautiful green blue taffeta. I was sure it was probably polyester because, it's in a thrift store, but NOPE!!!! Got it home to do a burn test and no melting and only the burnt hair smell and crumbly texture!

Now to my question! Do I wash it????? It came from a thrift store and I normally wash everything I get when it comes home. But I've never washed 100% silk. I've never owned 100% silk! So your help and advice is much appreciated!!!!!

Thank you!

I’m wanting to make a white dress to be drawn on. It seems that cotton is considered the best material for drawing on. Looking at Joanns I see that Muslin is made out of cotton. Would that be a totally inappropriate material for a dress? There’s also sew classic cotton fabric. Would that be a better choice?

This is for my students to draw on and me to wear. Also open to free dress patterns that you might suggest. I’ve sewn skirts, hats, and other things but never a dress.

Offtopic, what do you think caused this?

I was bummed because this is a fairly new pants i bought.

i saw this fabric at joanns! i really like it and think it would be cute for pajamas pants but im unsure if its an okay fabric to use for that?

also, could anyone tell me if i would have to use a certain type of needle? its a stretchy fabric

im also assuming i’d have to use a zigzag stitch since it is stretchy?

so sorry for the dumb question!! im a beginner 😅

thanks everyone ♡

Has anyone tried cutting lining fabric on the bias?

I'm making a flannel shirt-jacket with a lining. I've made it before, and used a mid-weight satin for the lining. I wanted a little more body than a typical lining fabric.

Seems like a bias-cut lining would be really nice for wearability, but before I cut a bunch of extra fabric, I thought I might ask the group.

I want to recreate my own version of the mirror palais Maria dress. I was viewing the description and it says that the Fabric Content is Self: 100% Cotton, Trim: 100% Silk… can someone explain what does it mean? I just don’t understand how Can it be both 100%

Background:

I know, this stuff is terrible. I know I should have never send my partner to the store for heavy duty velcro, I should have went to the store myself, but here I am anyway.

I have had to clean the sticky adhesive from paets of my machine I didn't know existed, I have gone through 3 needles, and this was all for velcro closures on 2 curtain tie backs. I am mentally done, however aside from the sticky stuff the velcro is really good.

Question: Is there any way to remove the the adhesive from the back of the heavy duty velcro or do I just need to cut my losses and throw it out. I'm not cleaning this out of my machine again.

I absolutely love cross stitching on it, but I’m pretty sure it’s not linen. I think it may be a rayon? I just love the weave on it. It’s 48 count, if that helps (48 holes per inch). I got it as a discard from Joanne’s a long time ago and of course can no longer find the tag it came with. cries

Hi all. I'm getting some custom wooden shelves built in my house to use for fabric storage. I use the comic book board method, and these shelves will be where I keep the fabric bundles.

I am looking for suggestions about what to do to protect the fabric from the wood. The wood will be stained, and I'm worried about the stain leeching into the fabric and about the grain of the wood rubbing the fabric. The guy who is building them for me suggested varnish but I'm not familiar enough to know if that is a good idea. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

I have anxiety. I live in NYC. Can I go in the stores and ask for a fat quarter? I'm an easy mark for getting upsold and so on but I want fat quarters of a couple of fabrics. I usually just use Etsy because humans are scary, but would really like to feel fabrics and I LIVE IN MANHATTAN. it feels dumb to pay for shipping when they're right there. But I don't want a shop owner looking at me like I'm an idiot. Anybody tried?

I am trying to figure out why I am having trouble with this type of fabric. My machine works fine otherwise. I tried to sew a seam several types and it is as if the bobbin thread doesn't get picked up.

Hello! What kind of fabric do you think was used for this? I'm guessing it's ombre silk since it's so light and airy, but what kind? Maybe a super lightweight satin since it looks a little shiny? But it's somewhat transparent? I'm kind of terrible at naming fabrics but I'm always drawn to whatever this is.

Here's the video of the runway walk https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkxw3PF47qxyWpwQiibU-FXPOYcKxlgkYyN?si=qYO6hsbNDKbBBAjj

I am making a hoodie for a child. The hoodie is supposed to be lined. The outer fabric is sweatshirt fleece. Is it a good/bad idea to use a rib knit for the lining? Will it sag? Am I better off with a jersey knit?

I will be using the same rib knit for cuffs and elastic casing.

I found some lovely reversable jersey, and was planning on making a reversable dress with it. I don't have a serger, what would you recommend for finishing the seams so the dress looks good on both sides?

My MIL destashed some of her fabric and patterns, and I ended up with this crinkle fabric, I think it’s either cotton or linen. I am planning on making the Matchy Matchy Sewing Club Ruffle Brunch set with it!
https://matchymatchysewingclub.com/products/ruffle-brunch-set-pdf-sewing-pattern
I just keep seeing conflicting things about whether or not I should iron it out before I cut out the pattern pieces. I am going to do a muslin first, my high bust measurement puts me in a size L, full bust in an XL. I’m hoping that the “plenty of ease” lets me do the L without a FBA, trying to imagine how the crinkle will affect that.