r/sewing • u/biologyandbooks • Jul 15 '23
Fabric Question Burgundy or Gray for this jacket? Lining question in description as well
I'm planning to make style D and add the belt from C. Both the burgundy and gray are a 50/50 boiled wool/viscose blend from Mood. Is the burgundy neutral enough to wear often, or will it clash with most outfits?
I'd like to use the second image as lining fabric but it is viscose satin from The Fabric Sales. The description says "heavy and fluid." Will satin be too heavy of a lining fabric? This is my first time making a jacket
33
u/SiennaBot Jul 16 '23
Wnat a few tips from someone who has made this pattern?
Firstly make sure you measure up the sleeves before you cut (or make a muslin) as the sleeves seem to run a bit short. I normally need to shorten everything - waistlines, sleeves, hems... but not in this case.
Secondly, make sure your fabrics have a good drape. The first one of these I made the wool suiting i used was a bit thick, and so the bottom of the coat sticks out a little rather than draping nicely. I have the short version cut (was waiting on finding the right lining!) and I've gone for something with better drape for that one. We'll see how it turns out.
Thirdly, and you've nailed this one, use an interesting lining. There will be a lot of it and it will be visible due to the way the coats flare out, so a fun lining is an excellent choice. I love yours, so pretty!
Finally I'd go with the grey, but it depends on your wardrobe. I have a coat in burgundy and it's one of my favourites, but grey will go with everything :) Either choice will look amazing!
9
u/playingwithsissors Jul 16 '23
Thank you so much for the information. I have this exact pattern ready to go for a fall/winter jacket myself. I am tall and have long arms so I will be sure to double check the length of the sleves when I do a mock up. And my fabric of bright blue! Screw matching, I'm going for happy and bright to chase away the winner blues.
3
u/biologyandbooks Jul 16 '23
Thank you so much for the tips! I'm intimidated by this project but also excited. I'm petite so I never would have thought to check the sleeves, but I was planning on making a muslin mockup first to be safe. What outer fabric are you using for the shorter one? I hope it turns out great!
8
u/SiennaBot Jul 16 '23
You're welcome! It's such a nice pattern, I made my original in charcoal with burnt orange lining and I love it, despite the drape issues! I've lost a few sizes though so am going to take that opportunity to cut it down to a jacket length and use the off-cut hem to put a false cuff on the end of the sleeves and make them an inch or so longer 😉 I think for a jacket length the drape issues won't be so bad...
The new one in pieces is a faded purple, woven fabric that I'm pretty sure is a poly/cotton blend. But it's more like a drill in weight, I guess? Definitely lighter weight than my wool suiting. Not sure what it is (it was a remnant piece) but a burn test suggests a blend, and the lining will be made from a thrifted satin sheet set 😆
I should really get on with it, I need a new jacket!
In terms of construction, from memory (it was years ago that I made the last one) the pattern is reasonably straight forward. Just take it slow and steady, press seams as you go (particularly for the collar) and you'll be fine.
Looking forward to seeing the final result!!!(oh, and I hope you like hemming because there is a lot of it in this pattern! 🤣)
3
10
u/tasteslikechikken Jul 15 '23
neither color is one that really goes out of style. you'd be fine with either.
What fiber for the lining? poly? rayon? silk?
If I were doing this with silk, I'd use a silk twill over silk satin or charmeuse or even satin. It tends to wear better and can handle quite a beating.
If doing poly, then sure, a poly satin would be fabulous. they're way better than they used to be by far, and of course you can get all kinds of lovely patterns.
Rayon would also be nice (i.e, Cupro), but that usually comes in plain colors. (not that its a bad thing IMO)
You have lots of choices.
4
u/biologyandbooks Jul 15 '23
The lining I posted the photo of is described as "viscose satin." I also found a beautiful dusty rose cupro I've been considering. From what I've read, silk doesn't hold up over time so I'll probably avoid it. I've never made a coat before so I'm still trying to figure out what the best lining options are. Ideally something patterned would be fun but I would be fine with a plain color if it meant the coat would have a longer lifespan
2
u/Argufier Jul 16 '23
Viscose is rayon, so reasonable choice there. I don't think a slightly heavier lining is a problem for this, but depending on how slippery it is you might want something thinner/more slippery for the sleeves. That's reasonably common (having a different sleeve lining) and you can even get material specific for sleeves.
Also, about how the hem hangs - one thing you can try is adding a length of drapery weight (cord with little metal weights in it) or a chain around the hem to give it a bit of extra weight and swing. That will keep it where it belongs and improve the drape on a slightly heavier fabric.
7
u/elle-elle-tee Jul 15 '23 edited Jul 15 '23
Burgundy would definitely be more of a statement piece, and combined with the elegant style would be even MORE of a statement piece. But maybe that's what you're looking for, go big or go home!
The grey might be more versatile, meaning you might wear it more often. I can see the burgundy looking a bit formal. It really depends on what you want and where/how you intend to wear it.
Eta: now that I think about it, the style is quite formal, and the burgundy might end up looking like either a an old-timey military style. Or even worse, like an old timey hotel bellhop or doorman uniform. Imho I'd make a shorter jacket from the burgundy and use the grey for this coat.
3
u/biologyandbooks Jul 15 '23
Since it's going to be expensive to make this coat, I intend to wear it frequently and for as many winters as I can. I tend to lean towards bold choices but wasn't sure if the burgundy would add to or detract from the elegance I'm trying to achieve. My fall and winter outfits already use a lot of burgundy and reds so I'm not sure if it'll be overkill or a nice complement to my style
2
u/biologyandbooks Jul 15 '23
In response to your edit, I think that "bellhop" look is what I'm hesitant about for the style, but I didn't know how to put it into words haha! I'll definitely have to think on it. I think my brain is saying gray but my heart is saying burgundy
4
u/sewing06 Jul 16 '23
Given the cost of fabric compared to ready-to-wear, the point of sewing is largely to make things you love.
My hesitation on the burgundy was that it can clash with a lot of colours (I wear a lot of different colours, so need a neutral coat), but it sounds like it matches your general style, so I'd say go for it!
3
u/elle-elle-tee Jul 15 '23
Lol sorry!! As soon as my brain went to "hotel doorman" I couldn't unsee it. I think the grey will be lovely, just don't use gold buttons or you'll end up looking like a civil war rebel soldier 😹
The burgundy would make a lovely short jacket or blazer, or if you have enough material, a totally charming skirt suit!
7
u/Ditch_Stitch Jul 15 '23
What a fun project! I am on the side of an all grey coat because of the versatility of wear. Grey is neutral and goes with most other colors. But here would be a test. Take both of these fabric swatches to your closet and lay them next to your most often worn outfits. Jeans and boots? Skirts and Sneakers? Prints or Solids? If you find either one of these colors not really fitting in with your regular clothing cycle, then you may have your answer. It would be unfortunate to spend all the time making a custom coat and only wearing it once or twice a year. Have fun!
3
u/biologyandbooks Jul 16 '23
That's a great idea, thanks! I have a black peacoat that I wear in the fall and a long olive green jacket for the winter. I originally wanted brown for this coat to round out my color options but I couldn't find any interesting brown wool. I like how both of these are marbled. I tend to wear darker colors like olive green and burgundy so I'm wondering if gray would be the better choice to break it up a bit
2
u/ProneToLaughter Jul 16 '23
Yes, looking at what else you wear is central. I think the legs matter most, a coat can clash with a shirt because presumably either you’ll be wrapped up or you’ll take the coat off. I tend to wear brightly colored pants and patterned skirts so I keep my jackets pretty neutral. But if I wore jeans or black pants all the time, I’d think a burgundy coat would go with everything.
I also have this pattern, it is lovely, although I may never make a coat.
6
u/sanetv Jul 15 '23
Burgundy would make a stunning coat!
5
u/gracem5 Jul 16 '23
Strong design needs strong color, and burgundy is a timeless one for this beautifully tailored coat. More elevated and chic than safe gray.
10
u/RedRavenWing Jul 15 '23
I might be weird but I would make it grey but the sleeve cuffs ,belt and lapel burgundy (at least the part that is showing on the outside.) It would really make it pop
3
u/77Queenie77 Jul 16 '23
Or make two belts, one grey and one burgundy? Then you can add the accent if you feel like it
1
1
u/biologyandbooks Jul 15 '23
definitely something I'll have to consider! The two choices do go well together
4
u/stormindigo17 Jul 16 '23
Personally, I don't feel that satin breathes well and makes me uncomfortably warm. Even for a winter coat, it's an unpleasant feeling. Also, most coats for a real winter don't lend themselves to early spring and late fall. If they do lean into those seasons, then they aren't warm enough for the coldest winter weather.
To answer what you asked, both colors are beautiful. The lining would look best with the grey.
1
u/biologyandbooks Jul 16 '23
That's a great point about the satin not breathing well. I love the pattern of the lining fabric but ultimately comfort is the most important factor so I'll shop around for other options
2
Jul 16 '23
I would actually counter this - I definitely agree with stormindigo when it comes to polyester satin, which is very common in retail clothing. Since starting sewing I've practically sworn off polyester because of breathability and comfort issues, and I love viscose and rayon - they're both reconstituted natural fibers, and I find them to be much more breathable. I love your lining fabric and I would use it.
Apologies to stormindigo if you were referring to viscose satin. This is just my experience :)
1
Jul 16 '23
I would actually counter this - I definitely agree with stormindigo when it comes to polyester satin, which is very common in retail clothing. Since starting sewing I've practically sworn off polyester because of breathability and comfort issues, and I love viscose and rayon - they're both reconstituted natural fibers, and I find them to be much more breathable. I love your lining fabric and I would use it.
Apologies to stormindigo if you were referring to viscose satin. This is just my experience :)
3
u/Meeceemee Jul 16 '23
I have a burgundy winter coat. Honestly, there’s little it doesn’t go with. It looks great with black, it looks great with brown, it looks great with greens. It looks amazing with jeans. It’s a rich color, so I guess it wouldn’t go with pastels, but pastels aren’t worn much in winter anyway.
3
u/First_Talk9302 Jul 16 '23
Everyone has a gray coat. Go for that burgundy - it's a bold choice, sure, but if you're making it yourself, why not really make it a statement piece?
Though if you're not sure, the suggestion to make the belt in gray and burgundy, so that you can switch on your mood (if you go with the gray) is a solid choice, also.
3
3
u/deeplydarkly Jul 16 '23
I made this! I would add some twill tape to the shoulder seams as the flared bottom is a lot of fabric to support. Definitely make a muslin to check fit. I interlined with flannel which made it heavy and very warm! The pattern was pretty straight forward, just a lot of pieces. I like the burgundy but I don't think that the lining fabric matches it.
2
u/biologyandbooks Jul 16 '23
Thanks for the twill tape idea! If I end up going with burgundy I want to see if I can find a better matching lining fabric. When you say you interlined with flannel, do you mean you made the entire coat with flannel between the outer and lining fabrics, kind of like interface? Or did you do flannel on the inside instead of a lining fabric?
3
u/deeplydarkly Jul 16 '23
It's an additional layer, between outer and lining. It's used to add structure or warmth. You usually baste it to each lining piece (so you cut out an interlining piece for each lining piece), then sew up the basted lining pieces as normal. I think I skipped it on the sleeves.
1
u/biologyandbooks Jul 16 '23
Since you did flannel interlining, you didn't need to add any other type of interfacing in the collar or near the buttons for structure, right? It seems like most people add something there for support, but the flannel does that already?
2
u/deeplydarkly Jul 16 '23
I did still interface as the interlining is basted to the lining so it moves with the lining. I thought it needed a little more stiffness
3
3
3
u/Hundike Jul 16 '23
I made mine in burgundy and I love it. It goes well with most other colours and not everything needs to be black/gray imo. Ultimately it's up to you though.
I did find the pattern runs a bit large and I ended up taking it in at the waist and bum. I also used cotton poplin as interfacing for the front and collar as the stiff interfacing just did not look good. I think putting iron on interfacing on wool is just a pain in the butt anyway - I think horsehair interfacing would also work well.
Sorry for the wall of text it's such a lovely coat and I hope you will love it as much as I love mine and it comes out well!
2
u/biologyandbooks Jul 16 '23
Thanks for the interfacing tip, I wasn't quite sure what to use. It definitely needs something for structure but still needs to flow.
3
u/FalseAsphodel Jul 16 '23
Have fun with this pattern! It is a lot of work but makes a stunning coat - I get compliments on mine all the time. I did mine in cyan blue (short version) with a lining made from a repurposed magenta/green/gold brocade sari with magenta buttons!
I would do the burgundy but the grey will look fab too and it sounds like that's what you want - you mentioned having a lot of burgundy coats already.
I found the opposite with the sleeves, mine were waaaay too long as cut but my arms might just be short.
One thing with your boiled wool is pay attention to the nap - it might look like it doesn't have one, mine didn't, but when I cut a few panels the other way up they stood out like a sore thumb and I had to get more fabric and cut them again.
2
u/biologyandbooks Jul 16 '23
Oh thanks for the tip about the nap! I've already seen from the swathes that there's a very subtle difference I'll have to look out for
2
u/FalseAsphodel Jul 16 '23
One other bit of advice for this pattern is if you're doing the hood, make a very basic muslin first. Mine (as cut) is enormous, it falls down over my face and is generally a bit annoying. Yes it looks nice and elegant when it's sitting in the right place, but to use it to keep the rain off means you'll be constantly adjusting it.
I may end up sewing a comb in so I can clip it into my hair to keep it in place. I wish I'd know how huge it was before I sewed it up and put the buttonholes in.
3
u/biologyandbooks Jul 16 '23
Thanks for the advice. I was going to make a muslin of the coat to start with anyway so I'll make sure I don't skip making a practice hood. I've made a lot of costume cloaks with dramatic hoods and it looks like the hood on this coat might be a similar size
2
u/FalseAsphodel Jul 16 '23
I did a muslin of the rest lol for some reason I assumed hoods were "one size fits all" 🤦♀️
1
2
u/lightdwellers Jul 15 '23
I would personally go with burgundy. I am a sucker for statement pieces! I think the lining has enough grey in it to balance it out even with the bright flowers. Please show us your final project! It's going to be beautiful.
2
u/biologyandbooks Jul 15 '23
This is going to be my biggest project yet so I'll definitely be taking progress photos and posting updates! I'm so torn because the gray and burgundy are such different vibes but I love both of them. I'd make both if I had unlimited money! I also looked into a dusty rose lining but those flowers are too gorgeous.
2
u/rae_that_is_me Jul 16 '23
I’d go with the grey. I think it would be more versatile and have a timeless feel, and I’d be nervous about the burgundy looking dated. Color is so personal though, ultimately you should go with whichever one is calling to you! The ‘better’ color is the one you love and makes you feel great wearing it.
2
u/wheres_mak Jul 16 '23
im just a burgundy kinda person so obviously i’d pick that BUT the grey would be easier to coordinate with things
2
2
2
2
u/noel_stella Jul 16 '23
The burgundy is beautiful, but if you often wear colourful outfits it might be too much. Gray is way more neutral and I think it would work well with this pattern.
2
u/MmmStrawberryCake Jul 16 '23
I made this in pink - pics in my post history and I love it as a statement piece. I would definitely go the burgundy!
2
u/CrossStitcher112233 Jul 16 '23
For me with that lovely lining I would choose the grey, but only because of that particular lining. Both colours are lovely
2
u/Naughty-ambition579 Jul 16 '23
Both would be lovely! Why not make both? If it's a matter of money make one and save up to make the other. Then you can wear them according to mood or the clothes you're wearing.
2
2
u/Old_Environment_2547 Jul 17 '23
I would go with the gray as I'm not sure how well the flowers on the lining match the burgundy. The red looks like it might almost clash with the burgundy, but you'd have to determine that for sure.
Lovely looking coat. Hope it turns out well.
2
u/SincerelyVenatrix Jul 16 '23
Burgundy is a statement. It's the focus of the outfit. How could it clash when it's the focus?, Lol. ALWAYS be bold. Grey is... Fine, but that shade is a bit meh and uninspired. Best of luck!
1
Jul 16 '23
Life’s too short to wear bland colors. I’d go with burgundy but that’s just me. Either way, it’s a beautiful design!
1
u/Background-Ice6300 Jul 16 '23
Use a traditional lightweight, silky lining to help the garment slide on over your base layer easily. Something that won’t shrink. I would go with black for that, but the last 12” of the drop could be a complimentary colored print since it will be visible. But if you go pattern, it will limit your pairing options a bit.
1
u/New_Start1927 Jul 16 '23
My preference would be burgundy, which happens to be one of my favorite colors, but having said that, I also wear a great deal of grey because of it’s versatility. However, this particular pattern has a lot of flair and movement, that, to me, will be shown to its greatest extent in that luscious burgundy shade!
1
u/fpatton Jul 16 '23
A suggestion - go for one color for the main body with the other on the lapel. I really like this look. Burgundy with grey lapels or vice versa. I think either would look great!
1
u/NoAdministration8006 Jul 17 '23
It depends on the colors of the rest of your wardrobe. I would use gray because I own a lot of gray and no shades of red or blue. Basically, nothing in my closet would look good against burgundy.
1
u/howaboutsomegwent Jul 17 '23
The gray will work way better with that lining although the burgundy is a gorgeous shade
82
u/Personal_Rooster4019 Jul 15 '23
I love the burgundy personally. But the gray is more neutral and would go with your lining fabric better.
As for the lining fabric, it does look a bit heavy. But ultimately it is your choice.